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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Did anyone see the show "Trucks" awhile back on the spike channel? They used an epoxy type cream bonding agent to mount a cab corner. It was able to be ground down like a weld after it dried, and was supposed to have as strong of a bond as a weld. ( if not stronger). My question is , Would this work for my wheel well tubs if I am re locating them? I know I need to weld in the re-loction kit for the springs, but This epoxy type system makes the wheelwell move look really intriguing to me since I don't own my own welder. Any thoughts??? Thanks, Ramman
 

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If I didn't my own welder I would use an  after market wheel tub,  that you would rivet to the frame rail and silicone to the quarter, to split and widen the original wheel tub you end up hammering then tacking, hammering then tacking and so on, I don't think that glue would work real well in this application.  My buddy glued the roof sheat metal back on his outlaw car, so glue will work. But I wouldn't try it on  wheel well tubs.

                                                                    SIKPUP ;D
 

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[]{} & don't even think about trying it on the spring relocation kit.

I know, you thinking doh....but I know that somewherre someone it thinkin...hmm..I wonder....
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yes, I know . I wasn't even considering it for the re loc. kit. I was just brainstorming for the wheel wells. I figured if it worked for body panels, it may work for the wheel tubs. The guy using it on t.v. said it was actually stronger than a weld. I thought it sounded too good and easy to be true. I figured the only pressure on it was from the trunk lid hinge mout.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think it would work fine. I did a set of quarters with a product called Fusor and it worked great. Cheap and effective option to welding
 

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Fusor is a great product. There is also a 3M equalivant product. NASCAR uses both product to bond various body panels.

Having been in the Dupont net(Autobody Refinish Products line), FYI that both products require special "Caulk" guns that mix the two compoents via special nozzles. The guns themselves run approx 125.00+ and nozzles(12 pac) about 22.00 and the "glue" itself runs from 38.00 to 58.00 per application.
 

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Midnight Special said:
Fusor is a great product.  There is also a 3M equalivant product.  NASCAR uses both product to bond various body panels.

Having been in the Dupont net(Autobody Refinish Products line), FYI that both products require special "Caulk" guns that mix the two compoents via special nozzles.  The guns themselves run approx 125.00+ and nozzles(12 pac) about 22.00 and the "glue" itself runs from 38.00 to 58.00 per application.
Dang guns are expensive!I got one at home.That stuff works great.
 

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i used that stuff to fix a small patch on my car. was good about it that it didnt heat the metal around. and could skim coated after.
 

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It works great but should not be used for structural parts (ie. frame rails, floors, rad supports etc) because it doesn't have alot of peel strength. When doing 1/4 panels you should always weld the back end because if you get rear ended and it is just glued, the 1/4 can peel away from the inner. I wouldn't use it on wheel tubs if it were me. I have used most of them(3m, fusor,proform, duramix) and they all work prety good. The fusor smells pretty bad and when dries it has a sticky film on it. And they can all be ground down. I get the guns free from the supplier at my shop. Every time we change products it requires a different gun. they want us to use their product so they give us the required gun. You can always check some bodyshops to see if they have any old guns around that you can have, it will save you the cost of a new one.
 
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