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i just bought myself a fiberglass 6 - pack hood scoop for my 1968 dodge dart, and i am looking for advice on how to attach it to my steel hood. Anybody with tips on placement or attaching methods, please post them, here.

Thanks, Steve.
 

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If there is a flange around the scoop you could always trace it out on the hood.Cut the opening about a 1/4" smaller,flange it(so the scoop sits down in the flange flush with the surrounding hood) then bond it with an epoxy such as Speed Grip or similar then fill and sand as necessary.I don't know how big your hole has to be in the hood so this might not work for your application.

carl
 

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SEM makes great products for this. Think, Corvette building, metal frame with an SMC (Sheet Molded Compound) (glass fiber with epoxy based resin instead of polyester based resin) skin bonded to it.  Go to  http://www.sem.ws/product.php?product_id=84  This product adheres to both regular fiberglass and SMC equally well, as epoxy based adhesives adhere to epoxy based sheet material, metal, polyester resin based sheet material, wood and the like, but polyester based resin materials will not adhere to metal well and never ever adhere to epoxy based material of anykind, it usually wont even cure.  Of course other products such as SEM no swell  http://www.sem.ws/product.php?product_id=118  will be needed to do the bodywork/blending in of the hood scoop after its bonded. I use this method because SEM no swell is compatible with, and can go on top of, the bonding adhesive but you shouldnt try to use the bonding adhesive alone to smooth/blend out the scoop. It sands like stone and the adhesive doesnt like to be primed and painted over directly, its not really made for that. The no swell is designed to be primed over like regular filler, or you can use no swell as a barrier coat to your filler of choice. I've done both. These two products will do the trick. Hope this helps. Jeff.      P.S. I would also use a larger flange than 1/4 inch, 1 inch or so, you'll need the bonding surface area for permanent adhesion.  No disrespect intended Demon Child. Just my 2 dollars worth (inflation and all)
 

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I agree totally.No disrespect taken.I've been out of the biz for about 4 years and spent the previous 8 in fleet work.It's hard to keep up with things when you don't do it everyday anymore.I've been enslaved to turning wrenches now(had to make a move within the company...job security issue)I would like to see somebody use bonding adhesive for blending lol.Might be able to sand it with a chisel.I'm guessing you HAVE to use the panel filler over the bonding adhesive?The reason i ask is because i remember using 40/50 bonding adhesive and if you tried to apply standard body filler over it without first applying the 4058(i do belive that was the number) it would just bubble the bondo like hubba bubba.Will that have the same effect with the SEM bonding adhesive if you dont put the panel filler over top of it first?

Thanks,

carl
 

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The regular body filler over the adhesive seems to take a real long time to cure, and when it does, then it sticks to the fiberglass real well, and sticks to the steel real well, but where it directly contacts the adhesive, it seems to remain soft and ball up when you try to sand it and you can scrape it off with your fingernail, assuming as a bodyman you have any left. LOL
 

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I just bought a cowl induction scoop and the guys at Fiberglass Trends told me, they use JB Weld, no cracks or complaints.
 

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I would'nt use jb weld for something that big. If the manufacturer's use epoxy, its good enough for me. I'm not into reinventing the wheel. I havnt seen a panel fly off or crack at the mounting points yet on a corvette, so they must be doing something right. just my 2 dollars worth (inflation and all) Jeff
 

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