Big Block Dart Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am keeping the factory interior so I had to figure a way to box out the seat belt mounting bolts seperating them from the trunk space. I know its overkill, that's the way I am. So I thought I would share my ideas with you guys.









I will be starting on the 8 pt bar through the package tray soon. The problem with this is between the bulkhead, frame connectors, torque boxes, widened steel wheel wells, full interior, Dana and Hemi some day, and me at 250#, it should outweigh my RR. I will have a glass hood, trunk and bumpers to help.

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Yeah, but it will also outrun the roadrunner ;)

I've been workin on the same stuff, just finishing up the 8 pt., starting the bulkhead, lookin for a place to build a hemi.
Drew
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,490 Posts
Hey Tom, looks real good. You really know what you're doing. What are torque boxes??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Mike (fellow '69 RR brother). Have you started your roll bar yet? My 325/50 15's with redines show up next week. I'm like a kid at Christmas.

mopowers: Torque boxes tie the floor pan to the unibody frame and then to the outside body of the car at all 4 corners. They were popular in alot of Hemi and convertible Mopars. You can buy them at Auto Rust Technicians for about $250. I made my own from pics I took at car shows. They are probably overkill also. I tied mine into my subframe connectors. I can send you pics if you want.



Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,490 Posts
Yeah Tom, if you've got more pics I would love to see them. If you don't have any, don't go take any. Just if you already have them. [email protected] Also, are those worth looking into for a 10 second street strip car in addition subframe connectors? Thanks!! tnku
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
459 Posts
Looks great Tom, I do think it might be a tad overkill though, I'm planning to use 18ga aluminum and rivet it in...Unless the there's a reason for it to be steel and fully welded?....

Ryan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ryan (Strange246) said:
Looks great Tom, I do think it might be a tad overkill though, I'm planning to use 18ga aluminum and rivet it in...Unless the there's a reason for it to be steel and fully welded?....

Ryan
Yes its overkill. I had a full sheet of 16 ga. for free from a friend. I did fully weld it for safety reasons. It will be a street car and I drive around crazy people in the Seattle area. Having a fuel cell in the trunk makes me a little nervous so I wanted a completely sealed trunk.

Thanks,

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
459 Posts
Might be a good idea then...whats a little flaming gas in the cockpit? LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
392 Posts
b569rr said:
Thanks Mike (fellow '69 RR brother). Have you started your roll bar yet? My 325/50 15's with redines show up next week. I'm like a kid at Christmas.
Haven't started the roll bar yet, but I have a question. If I went with a chrome moly bar, can I tack it together with my MIG and then have it TIG welded?

mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Mike; I wouldn't put anything but compatible fillers on 4130. Chrome moly will crack if you mig weld it (although I have personally never tried it).

Even a good tigged chrome moly weld typically won't be as strong as the pipe. When we test our carbon steel welds ( A53 and A106), the pipe should break before the weld does if welded properly. It has to do with how the parent material mixes with the filler rod.

For the 4130 tube, ER80S-D2 or ER70S-2 filler is recommended even over the 4130 filler which is too hard (brittle). It must cool slowly and not be quenched.

You can gas weld 4130 also. Do you have a gas torch to tack your bar?

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Your fab work looks great. You have given me some great ideas. Are you going to use a roll bar kit or fab one. If a kit whos did you pick. I have to redo a poor rollcage that was installed in my 68 Dart, and am trying to decide whos kit to use . Thanks Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
joes68349s: Thanks. I'm going to end up buying a kit from S and W. They have a kit that runs through the package tray speakers. I thought I would have started it by now but I haven't had a weekend off in two months. And my wife won't increase my car budget with the extra O.T.

Bob: The rear factory seat belts will be retained with the rear seat. I wanted a bubble tight bulkhead for fire protection. therfore I had to get the seat belt mounts on the passemger side of the firewall so I boxed them in.



Tom
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top