Frame connector question

5941 Views 21 Replies 13 Participants Last post by qkcuda, Feb 2, 2006

Darren

Discussion Starter · Jan 29, 2006

Hey guys I,m getting ready to weld in my connectors, on a 68 dart do you have to notch the floor any where? Thanks Darren.

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1 - 20 of 22 Posts

I think it depends on the size of the connectors. I'm getting ready to do the same thing and mine are 3x2" square steel tubing. I'm thinking I'll have to cut the floor right behind the seat mounts and before the shelf for the back seat. Check the tech section of you haven't yet, good info.

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Darren

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jan 29, 2006

Mine are 2x3 also , they are the same mesurements as used in the tech section, there is nothing siad in the tech section about cutting the floor. Darren

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jet-taz

· #4 · Jan 30, 2006

from what i seen it's more likely on 70's and later models,

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70Dustpan

· #5 · Jan 30, 2006

You can do it both ways and add a lot of stiffness to the car. Notching them inti the floor and welding the floor to them is the strongest way. On my Duster I put them in the floor, but in my Valiant I didn't want them in the floor so I notched them to follow the floor.

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Bakaruda

· #6 · Jan 30, 2006

I would put them in the floor. I am getting ready to redo mine and they are going in the floor.

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farmington

· #7 · Jan 30, 2006

I used 2 x 2 stock for mine (72 duster) and they came through the floor but only about 1/4". Can't tell with the carpet in. Having them come through the floor and welding them up will GREATLY increase the stiffening of the structure. Do it.

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b569rr

· #8 · Jan 30, 2006

I did mine per the tech pages with the long side horizontal. You have to cut the floors and the tube sticks up about 3/8". The carpet will hide that. I welded mine up solid.

Cut the tube steel, slide it over the rear sub frame and hole it tight to the floor with a jack. Scribe your mark, take the tube out and cut it with a .045" cutting wheel. Cut a little at first. You can always cut more later if you need to.

Tom

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strange246

· #9 · Jan 30, 2006

[]{} I did mine like Tom's...

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70Dustpan

· #10 · Jan 30, 2006

Man Tom, that is just some nice welding you've done there.

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b569rr

· #11 · Jan 31, 2006

Thanks 70 Dustpan. You guys make cutting up Darts so much fun )(/* tnku **(*)

Tom

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Bakaruda

· #12 · Jan 31, 2006

70 Dustpan said:
Man Tom, that is just some nice welding you've done there.

Ditto.

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sr71mopar

· #13 · Jan 31, 2006

I third that.

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68GTconvert

· #14 · Jan 31, 2006

I didn't cut my floor boards, they did push up some behind the seats.

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drew54

· #15 · Feb 1, 2006

not to steal the thread, but what is the deal with having the car resting on its suspension when you weld them in? jackstands under the front and rear subframe won't work? With the car on its suspension there is no way I can get under there to weld.

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sr71mopar

· #16 · Feb 1, 2006

Lifts or a pit. I have both, and the welder. 95407

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drew54

· #17 · Feb 1, 2006

on the stands the doors fit really well and I don't think anything is tweaked, its a post car so it might have a little more strength than a hardtop, we'll see what happens, thanks.

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70Dustpan

· #18 · Feb 1, 2006

Put the jack stands under the suspension. If you have them under the frame and there is any twist in the frame at that time you are going to weld it that way forever.

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67 dartgts

· #19 · Feb 1, 2006

Here is mine on project 440 also a 2 door post car....2x3 tube.
Maynard

[attachment deleted by admin]

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rharveysr

· #20 · Feb 2, 2006

Using the measurements and steel tubing from Tech Tips...will you need to notch the floor pan??? The reason that I ask...is that I like the idea of notching the pan and welding it to the pan. It seems to me that by doing it this way it really makes it more rigid.
My son's Dart is going to be running a 383 and 4 speed...so twist needs to be addressed...

Rick

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