Not needed on low deck
I would like to know too. I have a low deck, factory a/c car, and I want the mopar covers.jbarker said:So the modification isn't needed on low deck motor with stock valve covers....
What about low deck motor with Mopar Performance cast aluminum valve covers?
I still don't know if I need to do this mod. I have a low deck 383 with MP performance cast aluminum valve covers. The motor is in and running, but I just haven't gotten around to trying to pull a valvecover. If I do need to do this, I think I may look into using threaded rod coupling to join the stud to a new piece of threaded rod of the right size (1/4-20tpi?).Spook50 said:Great writeup. I plan to do this when I restore my heater box.
Question though: in step 7 you say to weld the new bolts in place. Since I don't have a welder easily accessible, do you think using JB Weld would suffice? I can't imagine there being much (if any) stress on the bolts, but I've been wrong before.
I checked out this part (the local NAPA was selling it for $37) -- the overall height, motor flange to outside of housing, is 3 1/2". I needed at least 3/4" of clearance and my current blower motor is 4" high. I did the modification like the original poster described. The heater box will go back inside the car next week. While I was at it, I cleaned everything up and replaced all of the deteriorated foam gaskets with thin weatherstripping.Spook50 said:After enlisting the help of a (very good) local auto electric shop, I managed to find a blower motor that's almost identical to the OEM heater blower and is about 1/3 shorter. It's almost a bolt-in replacement. I say "almost" because the shaft has to be shortened (it's about 3/4" too long) and the wires exit still from the side, but at the other end of the unit, which might require slight notching of the hole in the firewall to allow the wires to pass through. It's a Siemens fan, P/N PM360, but the NAPA box (I verified that it's the box it shipped in because it also has the correct part number printed on it) says it's manufactured by Balkamp. NAPA's item # for it is 655-1087 and it's about $55.
The one in the post right above you was bought off of e-bay...it is smaller in diameter and shorter overall..I also lost the rubber insulators...JATI'm getting ready to mod my heater box for my 68 Cuda with a 505 RB , Anyone have any pics and tips using the Siemens fan, P/N PM360. It looks like that combo would give me max room around the valve cover .
I have a new heater core , and a heater box gasket kit from Detroit gasket . The heater box is currently torn apart on my bench
I'll post pics of mine as I do it.
Is it a prior 1970 cuda or post 1970...if it is prior then you will be close but just do what you are doing with the heater box and you will be fine..try it in a factory A/C car like mine...Started putting the heater box back together , The Cuda is still in Body Shop Hell.....
It looks like the factory blower motor sticks out about 2 3/8 " . The shorter motor sticks out 1 5/16"
About an inch shorter without any heater box mods.
Is this enough clearance , or do I need to cut the box ? How far away is the head from the firewall on the BB A bodies?
Cant wait till warm weather here in Ohio .
Here's some progress pics