Big Block Dart Forums banner
21 - 40 of 49 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
So the modification isn't needed on low deck motor with stock valve covers....
What about low deck motor with Mopar Performance cast aluminum valve covers?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,148 Posts
jbarker said:
So the modification isn't needed on low deck motor with stock valve covers....
What about low deck motor with Mopar Performance cast aluminum valve covers?
I would like to know too. I have a low deck, factory a/c car, and I want the mopar covers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Great writeup. I plan to do this when I restore my heater box.

Question though: in step 7 you say to weld the new bolts in place. Since I don't have a welder easily accessible, do you think using JB Weld would suffice? I can't imagine there being much (if any) stress on the bolts, but I've been wrong before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Spook50,

You are going to need to weld or braze the bolts. JB Weld will not work in this case.


Herb
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Any Idea if this is doable with factory A/C in a 68 barracuda, my 440 is awful close there, great idea. I can just barely get the valve cover off and on and am stuck with the factory chrome steel ones  because of just that motor. Going even further, I wonder if a newer cheaper more available heater motor is mountable say inside the box?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Spook50 said:
Great writeup. I plan to do this when I restore my heater box.

Question though: in step 7 you say to weld the new bolts in place. Since I don't have a welder easily accessible, do you think using JB Weld would suffice? I can't imagine there being much (if any) stress on the bolts, but I've been wrong before.
I still don't know if I need to do this mod. I have a low deck 383 with MP performance cast aluminum valve covers. The motor is in and running, but I just haven't gotten around to trying to pull a valvecover. If I do need to do this, I think I may look into using threaded rod coupling to join the stud to a new piece of threaded rod of the right size (1/4-20tpi?).
Here's a pic of threaded rod coupling: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5YE54
-Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
I finally got around to doing this mod today and it worked out perfect. I was able to move the blower motor so that it is pretty much flush with the ring on the firewall. I used 2 inch bolts on the inside and still had about an inch between the fan and the heater core. everything lined up perfect when I reinstalled and everything works as good as before. To pat myself on the back further I'm gonna buy some of those big, tall mopar performance valve covers. Thanks for the detailed post with all the pictures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
I'm going to throw a wrench in here, because that's just what I do bana

After enlisting the help of a (very good) local auto electric shop, I managed to find a blower motor that's almost identical to the OEM heater blower and is about 1/3 shorter. It's almost a bolt-in replacement. I say "almost" because the shaft has to be shortened (it's about 3/4" too long) and the wires exit still from the side, but at the other end of the unit, which might require slight notching of the hole in the firewall to allow the wires to pass through. It's a Siemens fan, P/N PM360, but the NAPA box (I verified that it's the box it shipped in because it also has the correct part number printed on it) says it's manufactured by Balkamp. NAPA's item # for it is 655-1087 and it's about $55.

Thought this might be a little easier route for some to take (like me) who don't want to modify (and risk damaging in the process) their heater box. From eyeballing, it looks like you'll gain about an extra inch or so of clearance with this motor in place of the OEM motor. I'll get some pics for comparison once my camera's battery is charged.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Spook50 said:
After enlisting the help of a (very good) local auto electric shop, I managed to find a blower motor that's almost identical to the OEM heater blower and is about 1/3 shorter. It's almost a bolt-in replacement. I say "almost" because the shaft has to be shortened (it's about 3/4" too long) and the wires exit still from the side, but at the other end of the unit, which might require slight notching of the hole in the firewall to allow the wires to pass through. It's a Siemens fan, P/N PM360, but the NAPA box (I verified that it's the box it shipped in because it also has the correct part number printed on it) says it's manufactured by Balkamp. NAPA's item # for it is 655-1087 and it's about $55.
I checked out this part (the local NAPA was selling it for $37) -- the overall height, motor flange to outside of housing, is 3 1/2". I needed at least 3/4" of clearance and my current blower motor is 4" high. I did the modification like the original poster described. The heater box will go back inside the car next week. While I was at it, I cleaned everything up and replaced all of the deteriorated foam gaskets with thin weatherstripping.

However, check your clearances -- this motor suggested above may work for some people.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,885 Posts
This is what I had to do for my 68 Dart AC car

I found a smaller diameter aftermarket blower motor and notched my aluminum vavle cover for clearance, I could not move the blower/fan in any farther because the heater and AC boxes are separate boxes....

:)




3/8" if lucky is all I would be able to move it in......



Notice that the rubber insulators are not used with this new blower motor....



BBD
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
I'm getting ready to mod my heater box for my 68 Cuda with a 505 RB , Anyone have any pics and tips using the Siemens fan, P/N PM360. It looks like that combo would give me max room around the valve cover .
I have a new heater core , and a heater box gasket kit from Detroit gasket . The heater box is currently torn apart on my bench
I'll post pics of mine as I do it.
Donnie
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,885 Posts
I'm getting ready to mod my heater box for my 68 Cuda with a 505 RB , Anyone have any pics and tips using the Siemens fan, P/N PM360. It looks like that combo would give me max room around the valve cover .
I have a new heater core , and a heater box gasket kit from Detroit gasket . The heater box is currently torn apart on my bench
I'll post pics of mine as I do it.
Donnie
The one in the post right above you was bought off of e-bay...it is smaller in diameter and shorter overall..I also lost the rubber insulators...JAT
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Started putting the heater box back together , The Cuda is still in Body Shop Hell.....
It looks like the factory blower motor sticks out about 2 3/8 " . The shorter motor sticks out 1 5/16"
About an inch shorter without any heater box mods.
Is this enough clearance , or do I need to cut the box ? How far away is the head from the firewall on the BB A bodies?
Cant wait till warm weather here in Ohio .
Here's some progress pics
Donnie
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,885 Posts
Started putting the heater box back together , The Cuda is still in Body Shop Hell.....
It looks like the factory blower motor sticks out about 2 3/8 " . The shorter motor sticks out 1 5/16"
About an inch shorter without any heater box mods.
Is this enough clearance , or do I need to cut the box ? How far away is the head from the firewall on the BB A bodies?
Cant wait till warm weather here in Ohio .
Here's some progress pics
Donnie
Is it a prior 1970 cuda or post 1970...if it is prior then you will be close but just do what you are doing with the heater box and you will be fine..try it in a factory A/C car like mine...
 
21 - 40 of 49 Posts
Top