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K memeber question with pics

2782 Views 10 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  daneddy
I had posted quite a while ago about the K-Member in my 66 GT having a tear in the kmember frame. Here are some pics of it. Please look at them and tell me if you think I should beat it back as straight as possible, weld it up, then reinforce it, or just pull the kmember out and replace it. I have access to another one if I need it, it'd just be a hell of a job getting this one out, the other one out and putting the other one back in my 66. Thanks


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If it is a show car or a restoration car, I would replace it. If it is a race car or daily driver I would tap it straight and weld it. Or you could even put a little reinfocement over it and weld it. Those older K members are nothing like afew years newer K members.
That could move the location of the strut rod bushing. I think I'd probably replace it. That will give you time to detail it out of the car anyway.

replace it , you be fighting the aligment forever o[ you might want to check the front rail aligment?
Yea I would replace that. Then fully weld and reinforce the new one.
It's not a restoration car in the least way. How hard is it to pull the old k-member out and put another one back in?? What year range will fit a 66?? Are the 6 cylinder and V-8 k-members the same? Old Hillbilly Jack in Springfield has lots of these old darts for parts cars. He said he has several to choose from and he'll just give it to me. Labor is the only thing going to be involved and about 2 hours of driving. What do you mean by the alignment of the front rail?? Frame rail?

yes the front rail.sent you some frame specs. jet-taz
63-66 should be the same. /6 and V8 are the same. Loosen the torsion bar adjusting bolts, unbolt the steering gear, idler arm, strut rods, and lower control arms. After that's all loose there are four bolts holding the k-member to the frame rails.

Removing it may look to be a daunting task but it's not that bad once you're into it. Loosen the tortion bar adjusting bolts until the torion bar is not under torque. Take out the Clips in the back of the tortion bar cross member, slide the bars back. Unbolt the other suspension parts and drop the K member. Change over your parts and put the new one back up. you'll just need to do it in reverse and then make a quick trip to the alignment shop and readjust the tortion bars to the right level.

The K member in the Dart I bought to build was also damanged and rather than take the chance of welding it back up I opted to just find another one. Not only does the new one look better I can have confidence in it's strength and saftey.

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