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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need more wheel clearance up front on my dart and I've run out of options and I'm stubborn and want this set up to work dang it. Thinking of swapping the current A-body lower control arms with some B body options to get them 1/2" inboard. I've got adjustable UCA and struts so I can dial things in where I need to, but I'm curious if anyone has ever done such a thing and lived to tell the tale, or did they die from embarrassment?
 

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The angles are slightly different as I recall. I would change the offset on the wheels first. The front track is wider than the rear as it is with either front brake system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The angles are slightly different as I recall. I would change the offset on the wheels first. The front track is wider than the rear as it is with either front brake system.
I would love to change the offset, but unfortunately, that is not an option.
What angles are you referring to?
 

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On the arm itself. Seems to me that one of them has more arch to it, but I don't have any B-body arms left around. You will need to use the A-body pins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
On the arm itself. Seems to me that one of them has more arch to it, but I don't have any B-body arms left around. You will need to use the A-body pins.
Ahhh, yes. I have also been considering drilling out the rivets and swapping out the inserts or shifting their position (if the inserts are identical)
Thanks for the info!
 

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It's not the inserts, it's what is called the pin. It is pressed into the lower bushing and goes into the pin tube in the k-member. B-body pins are too large, but the bushing is the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's not the inserts, it's what is called the pin. It is pressed into the lower bushing and goes into the pin tube in the k-member. B-body pins are too large, but the bushing is the same.
I don't think I communicated what I was doing correctly. I'm in the middle of the shortening process and I'll post soon; kinda enlightening so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I finished moving the LCA insert. Here are the finished photos.

Automotive tire Bicycle part Bicycle chain Wood Rim
Automotive tire Bumper Wood Automotive exterior Gas
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread

I moved the cast iron insert that the strut bar and lower ball joint mount to inboard by 0.325". I have Dr. Diff's 13" brake setup which allowed me to easily move the hub inward 0.2" and I shaved 0.1" off the back side of the lower ball joint mounting surface on the spindle. This brought each side of the wheel mounting surface inboard 5/8" on each side. The SPC upper control arms made it possible to adjust things the way I needed to as well. All of this so I could run those YearOne cast aluminum rallye wheels on my dart without rubbing the fenders and with running a sane alignment.
 
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