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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just started minitubbing my 66.  The frame is a C-channel and when you grind the side of the frame to make the inner tub sit flush, it separates the frame from the floor pan.  Do I need to weld the floor back to the frame, or can I just weld the inner tub to the frame then weld the floor to the tub?  I'm sorry if this is a stupid question, this is my first experience minitubbing a mopar.  Thanks for the help.  I'll get a picture very soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here are a couple picture to help explain my question.



 

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I think they all do that...I beleive the floor is just spot welded to the flanges....I tack welded mine at the seam and were the mini tub meets it...
 

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bOb shingler said:
i welded the tub to the frame then welded the floor to the tub.
[]{} thats how i did mine...
 

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Ryan (Strange246) said:
bOb shingler said:
i welded the tub to the frame then welded the floor to the tub.
[]{} thats how i did mine...
Same here! Then I smeared seam sealer on it all to hide the crappy job!!!! lol

Looking good!!! I guess we don't have to tell you how important it is to get everything cleaned up before you weld it!!!! ;D fullmoon
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys, I thought it would be over kil to weld it solid before weld the tub in. The frame thinner than I thought. I tried welding it and burned through on the lowest setting on my Lincoln MIG.. Do you think I need thinner wire, maybe .025?
 

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You will have problems welding the top side with .030. Use .023 and wash it side to side just a little bit to move your heat. .030 should be fine inside the wheel well tying the tub into the frame keeping most of your heat on the frame.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Do I have to weld it solid or can I just weld 1" portions a few inches apart? Then slap some polyurethane seam sealer over all the joints.
 

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I'm sure that will be fine. But I prefer to weld all of it. I like to have the weld be 99% of the sealer. Stitch weld it to prevent warpage then go back and tie your stiches together.

Also, I was able to get the filler pieces installed in two pieces per side. I cut the strips long and then cut a few 2" x 4" 's. I placed the 2" x 4" 's between the floor of the shop and the bottom of the wheel well. I hammered the wood to get them as vertical as possible. This holds the filler strips tight to the bottom and helps correct the high / low situation of the two well halves. You can slide the filler strips around as needed and use a rubber mallet to form and tack the upper corners.






Tom
 

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i sprayed the inside of the wheel well with undercoating untill it covered the welds

[attachment deleted by admin]
 

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I am going to run out on a thin limb here....Cant the filler strips be tacked between the wheel well halves instead of welding them on the bottem or inside???
Or...what would be the another option so that the inside of the wheel well looks like it came from the factory ...nice and fat????


Thanks
Rick
 

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you could butt weld them in, but it's going to require more cutting/trimmiing/ fitting work. bending the contour to fit in between the halves might be pretty tedious, but if your good at sheet metal work, im sure you could do it.
 

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19swinger70 said:
you could butt weld them in, but it's going to require more cutting/trimmiing/ fitting work. bending the contour to fit in between the halves might be pretty tedious, but if your good at sheet metal work, im sure you could do it. 
That could be done by using the method I outlined above. After you jamb the filler in place,just put some scribe marks on the filler and cut it. That is alot of work that I didn't want to do.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
When you lap the filler pieces in, do they rust because they are bare metal. Or does the polyurethane seam sealer seal the rust out?
 
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