MiniTubs

I used a plasma cutter It was really easy, are your leaf springs moved inboard yet? Darren

Just did mine with a 4" grinder and a 0.045 razor cut-off wheel. You can get them with flat or depressed center. The depressed center disk will allow you to cut the frame rails flush. It took about 1 hour to cut both sides out. The disks are probably about $2.00 US each, 2 did both sides.

i used a set of fabricated 36'' tubs....looks way better

have a go.... not an easy job but a rewarding one

if you want me to explain how i did it email me @ [email protected]

Darren said:

I used a plasma cutter It was really easy, are your leaf springs moved inboard yet?  Darren

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Not yet. I will be doing it all at the same time. I will be starting this weekend. I have a couple of small rust spots on the quarters that I'll be fixing as well. I'll be sending my rear housing out to Moser for narrowing and axles. I am also going to install disc brakes all the way around.

Did you have any clearance problems with the trunk hinge?

MUT
CAN YOU POST SOME PICS? I AM DOING THE SAME USING 36" TUBS. I LIKE THE LOOK BETTER. I'M NOT SURE HOW TO MOUNT THE TUB TO THE 1/4 PANEL BECAUSE I HEARD THAT YOU ARE NOT SUPPOSED TO WELD THE TUB TO THE 1/4.

THANKS JOE

Mark go to the tech pages, and look under chassis and body, there is a step by step list on how to do the springs and wells. Just incase you did not know, it is very helpfull. Darren

A $19 air powered body saw makes splitting the wells a 15 minute job, much much faster than a cutoff wheel!

Ryan

I am also interested in mounting fabricated tubs w/bead rolls into my Barracuda instead of widening the existins wheelhouse. I have seen it done using rivets and brushable seam sealer but I too would like to see how else its done!

I have one important thing to add to this discussion that I've learned the hard way.

Cutting out the inner fender wells wasn't so hard and cutting the floor to match for the move inboard was tricky but not too tought. But please when you're welding the inners back into the rear frame rails, only tack them in place, then go up top and tack the fender well to the other cross member behind the rear seat and to the trunk spring brackets before completing the welds to the frame. I made the misake of fitting it and everthing touched up nice, then I did my stich welds on the inner well to the frame only to find out it heated the well up enough that the top now didn't ling up with the trunk spring brackets or the X brace behind the rear seat. it's a bitch to try and force those to make contact now but it has to be done. I had to learn that the hard way, hope no one else does.

Dan

on a related note, im getting ready to do this in a couple weeks as well on my 67 fastback cuda, and was wondering:
what kind of spotweld cutters are you guys using? is the basic kit that "Blair" makes worth the $45-$50? if so, did you guys order one from a website, or are there local places that have them. any other makers out there?

also, what guage metal should i use for a trunck floor? (i cut out my spare well)

I think most uf us just drill out our spot welds.

As for the trunk floor, I went with 16 gauge steel. This is probably overkill but I wanted a strong floor to help hold the fuel cell. The cell will actually bolt through 2" x 1/8" angle iron under the trunk floor.

Tom

ive used a 5/16" drill bit and a 3/8" bit before, and they worked ok, i just didnt know if anyone out there was using the "prfessional" spot well drill/cutters. (they look like little hole saws.)

19swinger70 said:

ive used a 5/16" drill bit and a 3/8" bit before, and they worked ok, i just didnt know if anyone out there was using the "prfessional" spot well drill/cutters. (they look like little hole saws.)

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I have one of the little "hole saw" spot weld cutters. It works well, but one has to be careful.

please elaborate..... did you get one hung up and it twisted the hell out of your wrist, or did car damage occur? or both!