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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone here ever considered moving the rear axle back 2" to eliminate rubbing larger tires on the front of the wheel opening? I was thinking about doing this when I move the springs in. Does it sound like a good idea?

Mike o----o<>
 

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Im in the process of moving mine back an inch. With 2", make sure the shock isn't at too much oof an angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks...I didnt even think of the shock angle.Ill have to do something with that, too. tnku
 

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Moving it that far back may also hit the gas tank.
 

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I moved the Demon's back approx 1 1/4" with no problems at all...Shock angle is fine...

Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thats pretty much how I was planning on doing it, adding about a 2" spacer in there or fabbing a new box for the front of the leaf spring.
 

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rank said:
How did you guys do this??????
Shim the front spring hanger?
My leaf springs are relocated to the frame rails, so I just had to drill a new hole for the front mount...

Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
A13Dart said:
Don't think you need two inches. What type of car and how tall are the tires?


mike.
Its a 72 Valiant, and I will be using the 29x10.5 Hoosiers.
 

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I'm not sure about it, but make sure the rear shackle doesn't hit the rear frame crossmember. You may have to use longer shackles. Just a thought.
 

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You guys that have done this, did you change/mod the shackles in any way? I was thinking about doing this to my 73 when I put an 8 3/4 in it so I don't have to cut the driveshaft (plus it'll be getting some tall rubber in there later on).
 

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I moved my rearend back 1 1/2" , also put the springs inboard under the frame rails using te MP boxes. I also have mono leaf springs and Caltracs. The eye in the front of my spring is in the stock position , except that is moved in. The mono springs are a two peice spring , the center bolt attaches the two springs together , I had Calvert drill another hole 1 1/2 forward in the front half of the spring, this allowed me to extend the length of the front spring by 1 1/2" , therefore moving my rearend back by 1 1/2 ". Now when you drill a hole in your frame for your rear shackle you drill it 1 1/2 " back towards the rear bumper.This will keep the proper angle for your shackle. If you move back any further than 1 1/2 " I think you will be into the rear of the wheel well. I am running a 295 x 65 x 15 tire ( about 30" ) , it is very close to being centered in the wheel well.
 

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The wheel bases on Plymouth A-bodies (Demon, Dodge Dart) are 108" and the Dodge ( Scamp) A-bodies 111", both models use the same springs. Wonder where Mother picked up three inches?
 

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Its a 72 Valiant, and I will be using the 29x10.5 Hoosiers.

72 Valiant would have different shaped wheel openings than my 68 Dart. I made temporary spacers to move my rear axle back 5/8" to clear a Hoosier 9x30 radial slick, it measures 29-1/4" actual.

Might be best to mock this up with the stock front spring hangers and some spacers before installing your inboard spring kit.

mike.
 

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mopardad,

I moved my springs rearward 1.75" at the same time I moved them inboard on my 1972 Plymouth Scamp. I had no adverse problems from this.
I believe any more than that you will hit the rear cross frame rail at rear bumper with your shackel.

68Valiant
 

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68Valiant said:
mopardad,

I moved my springs rearward 1.75" at the same time I moved them inboard on my 1972 Plymouth Scamp. I had no adverse problems from this.
I believe any more than that you will hit the rear cross frame rail at rear bumper with your shackel.

68Valiant
68Valiant: Did you drill your hole for the rear shackle any lower or is it at the stock height?? Also, did you use stock shackles?
 

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I used sliders to avoid any shackle problems ;)

Ryan
 
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