I have never seen a out of the box fiberglass hood that did fit.
My Fiberglass Hood???
G
It doesn't seem to fit right and I never see these hoods on an A-body. However, I DO see them on B-bodies. Is it possible this is a B-body exclusive hood and it was lucky that it fit width-wise?? Or is it just that it wasn't mounted right? ??? ??? There's a good-sized gap between the hood and the lip at the windshield. I didn't buy it, it came on the car. (You can see it in the pic below)
Thanks a lot in advance!
Jennie
Thanks a lot in advance!
Jennie
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
G
Yeah, trust me, I HATE working with fiberglass pieces because of their mis-fitting tendencies. I'm just scared because like I said, I never see these hoods on Darts but I ahve seen them on Road Runners (pardon me if I got confused with body type, gonna go check in tech section right now ;D)
It's probably a hood made by Unlimited Fiberglass, I bought a 6 pack hood for my roadrunner from them back in the early 90's, never used it. Fit was poor and the scoop was mounted crooked !
There is no way a B-body hood would come close to fitting an A-body, well, unless it was made by Unlimited. LOL
It looks like a Dart hood in the pics. Most glass hoods don't fit well ot of the box, most will need a lot of work. Dave
From what I hear, the AAR and Glasstek hoods fit pretty well, and the other brands are not good. Is yours a hinged hood, or lift-off? If it's hinged, you might be able to adjust the hinge bolts (the hinges are slotted) and push the hood back a bit. As long as the latch stuff still lines up.
If it's a pinned hood, you maight also be able to move it back, but you'll have to oval the holes in the hood, then move the chrome plates.
Or just live with it for now. There's probably a reason the last owner didn't line it up better.
Mark
If it's a pinned hood, you maight also be able to move it back, but you'll have to oval the holes in the hood, then move the chrome plates.
Or just live with it for now. There's probably a reason the last owner didn't line it up better.
Mark
Like said buy one from AAR or Glasstek. Just be ready to wait a few months for shipping.
ive seen up22 hoods, they are not too bad. i think it depends on the day it was made. i have a set of thier fenders, they are ruff.that looks like a up22 hood, the 6 pac scoop is kind of tall. i have an aar hood, and i think it leaves plenty of room for improvement. there stuff is nice, but it is far from perfect. the hood was on my friends 69, he had to chop the foward hole in his hinges out so far, the center of the bolt was at the end of the hinge, when he tried to get it resolved with aar, they told him his car is screwed up. i now have the hood on my dart, i have to leave about a 3/8" gap at the cowl to get it to open. the hood sags in the center, the edges match up with the cowl and fenders but the center is about 1/4" below the cowl. the hood also has a pretty good bow in it in the center down the sides compared to the fenders. the saftey latch will not catch no matter what i do with the hood or latch, only the first latch catches. when i drive down the road the hood flexes and bubbles up from the air going in the scoop. i always wanted a glass hood, but i now think they suck. i would recomend fixing the hood you have, or just living with it as if you buy another no matter what the brand, if you want it perfect, you will be fixing it. one good thing about painting them flat black, it hides a lot.
I'd vote for the AAR heard nothing but good thing's about them.... you get what you pay for w/ fiberglass
havent bought anything yet but will be in the future. i hear aar is the best. thank god my little brother is into body work and will be able to help me go through and clean the entire fit and finish up on the hood
I'm gonna be ordering an AAR six-Pack hood for my '68 Dart soon...
If the fiberglass hood is weak and sags in the middle, can you JB Weld some type of stiffeners to the inside to give it rigidity..?
If the fiberglass hood is weak and sags in the middle, can you JB Weld some type of stiffeners to the inside to give it rigidity..?
I will have my fenders and hood in a couple of weeks.They are from glasstek,looked like a nice product.Let you know once there in hand.
G
I am in the process of fitting up my AAR, 6pak scoop, bolt on hood as we speak. Mine is going on a '67 Dart GT. I have had to make a spacer to go between the left side hinge and the hood due to the fact that the hinge mounting areas are so far off (3/16" from one side to the other). The hood was so close to the fender on the drivers side that it required the spacer and a pretty good deal of sanding to remove and straighten to match the fender. I ended up with a 1/4" gap at the rear of the hood to cowl and about 3/16" gap to each fender. The other problem that I have is the hood was 3/16" out of square after careful measurement and the hood is 1/8" to short on the passenger side (the bezel sticks out 1/8" further than the hood trim). Otherwise it was a breeze to install. Their gel coat is the best I have ever seen, but I would think for the $500 you could make one fit better.
-Brian Smith
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-Brian Smith
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B-body hoods won't fit an a-body (the b-body hood is narrower, yes, narrower), plus the front lip is different. Fiberglass parts just don't fit that well without work.
408, i have found al of the same problems the odd wants to be so dam tight to one of my fenders, i forget which side, with a pretty big gap on the other side.
G
I don't have hinges but I noticed that my hood is pushed up on one side by the fender so that it leaves a gap between the windshield and the hood. Spacers are a good idea. I just have to look at it and figure something out.408strokerdart said:I am in the process of fitting up my AAR, 6pak scoop, bolt on hood as we speak. Mine is going on a '67 Dart GT. I have had to make a spacer to go between the left side hinge and the hood due to the fact that the hinge mounting areas are so far off (3/16" from one side to the other). The hood was so close to the fender on the drivers side that it required the spacer and a pretty good deal of sanding to remove and straighten to match the fender. I ended up with a 1/4" gap at the rear of the hood to cowl and about 3/16" gap to each fender. The other problem that I have is the hood was 3/16" out of square after careful measurement and the hood is 1/8" to short on the passenger side (the bezel sticks out 1/8" further than the hood trim). Otherwise it was a breeze to install. Their gel coat is the best I have ever seen, but I would think for the $500 you could make one fit better.
-Brian Smith
My AAR bolt on hood fits really well. I just wish it was a Superstock hood instead of the flat one.
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