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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What does everyone run for front shocks on there mopars? I'm hoping for high 10s eventually out of mine. Will parts house shocks work or are 90/10s my only option?

What about rears for use with caltracs? I'm doing more of a budget build because I'm saving for a house, so if performance difference is minimal, I'll take the cheaper. I need help making a christmas list!!! tnku
 

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I drilled a hole in my front shocks and pumped the fluid out. This makes a really cheap 90/10!!. So far it works well and transfers wieght good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've heard of that. I'm going to want to cruise it on the street though. How will these work on the street?
 

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It would probably be a little bouncy for street driving. If you are going to do much cruising you will want an adjustable shock so you cater to each situation. Comp Eng makes a good shock. You can adjust it from 90/10, 80/20, or 70/30. This may be a better choice for you.
 
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Ive used 90/10s on the street and did not really notice to much of a difference ather than the front end ride was a little stiff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Does anyone have experience with the adjustable Comp Eng shocks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I just looked on the mancini site and it said the CE adjustables are only for racing. Will these get squirly on the street?
 

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I think that would more depend on HOW you drive the car vs where.

I've driven a fairly warmed over chebby with 90/10s and a pretty reactive suspension and everything was fine and dandy until you really got on it hard. having the front suspension climb and stay like that for any amount of time CAN make street driving a little iffy (IMO), especially if you have to turn suddenly. a thing that tends to happen alot on the street and pretty rarely on your average day at the strip

I'd highly recommend adjustables if at all feasible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Cool, thanks a lot guys for your opinions. What other brands of adjustable are comparible to comp eng? I guess for 40 bucks a pop, you can't beat them.
 

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i have the ce shocks in the front of my dart. i dont really like them. i think they are made very cheap. they seem to work ok at the track, but definitely give lousy ride on the street. for the rear i have the ranchos, they are awsome. you can get a nice ride out of them and they are super easy to change positions. they also work great at the track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Where can I get the ranchos?

Jamesdart- if you had to buy different front shocks, what would you go with?
 

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I'm still trying to get over someone suggesting you drain the oil out of your shocks on a 10 second car......
 

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The choice of front shock depends on whether you will need to get the front end up for weight transfer. The Cal-tracs do a splendid job of launching the car without requiring the needed weight transfer for traction. That is the only reason you would want the front end up is for weight transfer, but if it's not necessary then keep the front end down. The CE's will probably work fine. You may find they work better for you in a 50/50 or 70/30 setting. Keep in mind that the more the front end travels the more energy wasted.

A dual adjustable is the best way to go, but it'll cost ya about $349 per shock. A single adjustable is the next choice at about $150.00. Strange and Afco both offer a rebuildable single adjustable for about $150 each. I/m not aware of a Rancho 9000 series that fits the front of a Mopar passenger car.

Draining the oil is the old school way. It works and it doesn't. It allows the shock to extend quickly thus transferring weight. It doesn't hold it up there thus allowing the weight to drop back down and unload the rear tires. It also makes for a very unstable racecar and allows the front end to nose dive when appliing the brakes hard; like at the finish line to avoid breakout. The nose dive unloads the rear tires and allows the back of the car to come around to the front. VERY DANGEROUS.

The KYB's are an excellent shock if you don't need the weight transfer.

If you can afford it, and for a 10 second car you really should not cut corners here, go with the single adjustable Strange or Afco's. There are a few other manufacturers out there also like Alden Eagle and Cool it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the help moparteacher. I need help deciding which torsion bars to run. I'm leaning towards the .890s just because the car will see street time. Will these bars work with CE shocks up front?
 

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if i were you i would get a set of .990 bars or so for the street, still very streetable but it eliminates most body sway, then just get a pair of /6 bars out of a junker because those very soft, it only takes a 1/2 hour or so to change them out
 

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mopowers said:
Thanks for the help moparteacher.  I need help deciding which torsion bars to run.  I'm leaning towards the .890s just because the car will see street time.  Will these bars work with CE shocks up front? 
I have the Rancho 9000 on the back of my Dart; 9 way adjustable and about $89 each at Summit.

Take stock shock down to your local 4 x 4 shop and see if they can match it. The off road shops carry Rancho but don't know if they make one for the front. I also have the .890 bars. I called Mancini and that is what they recommended for a mostly street occasianal strip big block A body car.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
moparrr07 said:
if i were you i would get a set of .990 bars or so for the street, still very streetable but it eliminates most body sway, then just get a pair of /6 bars out of a junker because those very soft, it only takes a 1/2 hour or so to change them out
I've got /6 bars now. I actually just took them out about 2 hours ago. I just don't want to bother changing them everytime I want to go racing. It would get really old after a while. And with the 165/15s up front, I don't think the .990 bars would be the best choice.

b569rr said:
mopowers said:
Thanks for the help moparteacher. I need help deciding which torsion bars to run. I'm leaning towards the .890s just because the car will see street time. Will these bars work with CE shocks up front?
I have the Rancho 9000 on the back of my Dart; 9 way adjustable and about $89 each at Summit.

Take stock shock down to your local 4 x 4 shop and see if they can match it. The off road shops carry Rancho but don't know if they make one for the front. I also have the .890 bars. I called Mancini and that is what they recommended for a mostly street occasianal strip big block A body car.

Tom
Thanks for the advice Tom. What are you running in the dart up front? I'm going to have to take some measurements for the rear shock most likely because I have moved the rear an inch back plus I've added a backbrace, so I don't know if they will bolt up to the stock upper stud without interference. I may just move them to the front of the axle by switching the lower shock mounts like Bill did (Flat black Plymouth B body) and just mount them to the frame.

Thanks for the input everyone!
 

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b569rr said:
mopowers said:
Thanks for the help moparteacher. I need help deciding which torsion bars to run. I'm leaning towards the .890s just because the car will see street time. Will these bars work with CE shocks up front?
I have the Rancho 9000 on the back of my Dart; 9 way adjustable and about $89 each at Summit.

Take stock shock down to your local 4 x 4 shop and see if they can match it. The off road shops carry Rancho but don't know if they make one for the front. I also have the .890 bars. I called Mancini and that is what they recommended for a mostly street occasianal strip big block A body car.

Tom
scuff and paint them rancho shocks youself.....they are the only parts on my Bronco that look like crap after 2 years o[
 
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