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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a new pair of slicks, M&H 8.0/27-15 (actually 9 inches of treadwidth). I was told that if I run tubes I need ones with screw in valve stems to pass tech. I was also told I could try them tubeless, but it was suggested that I use bolt in valve stems. I tried them and they interfere with the step in the rim and won't sit flush. Does anyone know if the rules require bolt in stems for tubeless running or if I can use stock rubber stems? Do you recommend tubes or tubeless? -o
 

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what rims are you running? i have tubes in my police wheels, they fit fint, you have to drill the hole to 5/8 though. i like running tubes, but they add weight and can be a pain in th eass to seat sometimes.
 

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I HAVE ALWAYS RAN TUBES. IF YOU RUN THEM THEY MUST BE NATURAL RUBBER LIKE M/T SELLS OR THEY WON'T WORK RIGHT. THE HOLE IN YOUR RIM FOR THE VALVE WILL NEED TO BE OPENED UP AND DEBURED FOR THE VALVE STEM ON THE TUBE. YOU NEED TO USE BABY POWDER A LOT OF IT ON THE INSIDE OF THE TIRE. MOUNT ONE SIDE OF THE TIRE THEN INSERT THE TUBE GENTLY SO NOT TO PINCH IT PUT THE STEM IN THE OPENED UP HOLE. PUT THE STEM NUT ON LOOSE. MOUNT THE REST OF THE TIRE FILL THE TUBE 15 PSI THEN LET THE AIR OUT BOUNCE THE TIRE ON THE GROUND WHILE ROTATING IT SO THE TUBE CAN CENTER ITSELF FILL TO 25 PSI LET SIT OVER NIGHT SO THE AIR STUCK BETWEEN THE TUBE AND TIRE CAN ESCAPE. SET DESIRED PSI (REC 15 PSI TO START) AND GO RACING. 0/
 

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dont forget that you'll need to run rim screws if you use a tube. If the tire spins on the rim, and slicks will tend to do that, it will spin the tube with it and rip the valve stem off. I ran without tubes for a long time in my slicks, but they wont hold air very long and i've heard some horror stories about the tire bead breaking loose while coming out of the hole and causing the car to pull hard to the left or right. Now i'm running tubes with rim screws.
 

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I had a 10.50, 3000# car and never ran tubes, I used a screw in stem, used an old racer trick to use tons of Polmolive dish washing detergent wiped on the inside of the tire before you mount them, never ran out of air, also 8 rim screws per side, and the tire size was 31X11.5W Hoosier slicks, It worked for me, Good luck, Newbomb
 

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I am pretty sure you can run regular valve stems, if running tubeless. I run mine tubeless with bolt in valvestems. I used Palmolive, wiped on inside of Hoosier 32" x 14.5" x 15" . They don't loose any air pressure from week to week. I do have 8 screws on inside and outside of rim. I run 8'4 to 8.7 pounds of air in the slicks . I check the air pressure before every run. I will have about a 2 pound lower reading in slicks, from when I put the car in the trailer, untill I get it out next week. That is from putting car away with warm slicks, and the slicks cooling down.  0/  I used to run Goodyear slicks with tubes, and the pressure from week to week would change the same as it does tubeless. Caused by slicks cooling down, Not loosing air pressure!! I have 4 tubes for 32' x 14" x 15" slicks if anybody wants them??
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the great responses guys. I picked up another set of 15x8 Ramcharger rims for the slicks. They had been drilled for screws and the larger valve stems, and then the holes welded back up to run tubeless. I could go either way, I don't have a problem with redrilling them. I was told by the guy who sold me the tires that I shouldn't use screws if I decide to run tubeless.
 

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I don't use tubes, just wipe some dish soap on the inside and the mount them up. You still need to run the screws, a rubber valve stem will be ok if you run 12.00 flat and slower. If you run nitrogen in your slicks your pressure will not change more than a 1/2 pound to a pound. Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dartracer, that's the info I was looking for, I will be in the mid to high 12's I'm sure.  Is that the NHRA or IHRA rule , or are they both the same?  Most of the local tracks are IHRA up here now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks again, I may throw them together tubeless with the rubber stems and see how well they hold air. With the weather around here I will have until May to decide what I want to do ::)
 

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If you don't treet the in side with something their going to leak. No big deal just a pain to keep full.
 

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put in the rim screws. ive had slicks move almost haolf way around the rim before with out the screws, the faser you go the more they can move, it the tire pops the bead the rim will get chewed up, screws are cheap,
3500lbs b body running 9.75 at 140 mph
2900 lbs chev running 10.50 at 131.00
all have had the tires move on the rims
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK, one last question. I am now leaning towards just getting tubes and screwing the tires to the rims right off the bat. I read on the Mickey Thompson website that I need to redrill the valve stem hole to 5/8 for the threaded stem. It also says that the stem is located on the inside diameter of the tube. The hole is now in the stock location on the small step beside the bead, and there isn't much meat there. That is why I couldn't get the bolt in tubeless stem to seat properly. Should I just weld up the existing hole and drill a new one in the centre portion of the rim. Like I said these rims have been drilled and rewelded before so I don't mind changing them if that is easier.
 
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