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Your thoughts on my setup...

My car should be on the road in a couple of months. Finally decided to just pay a shop to complete what I cannot do at this time. Here's the details:

CURRENTLY
538 Stroker - dyno'd at 665 HP and 680 TQ. TQ comes in low - nice fat torque curve with 500 lb-ft on tap starting at about 2500 rpm.
727
3.91 posi 8.75
SS springs
Snubber
Frame tied
offset shackle (not relocated)

So as i make the final decisions i have to weigh money vs style vs performance. Due to $$$ I'm going to stick with the 727 as opposed to a 4 speed or 5 speed swap (should save me about $4K but I'd love to do this at some point). I will start off with the current 3.91 in the 8.75 but will likely get a 3.23 gear setup since the car is light and I have so much torque. Possibility for a T56 upgrade or maybe a gear vendors overdrive unit in the future...

This car will not see much if any track time. This is a street car. The body shop massaged the inner quarters and lip to get some extra room under there. I'm waiting to get exact options for tire sizes but let's assume with the current setup I could squeeze a 255 under the car....maybe a 265/275??...

with my setup and power do i have any chance of hooking with a good sticky rear tire at 255? For $2500 i can mini-tub the car and get all the clearance i need. I'm keeping the car looking farily stock and think a 255 or 275 would look cool - particulary if it actually hooked and took off (yes i think the skinnier tire would look cool in this setup). I have to buy new wheels and tires regardless of which size i go with - so i'd hate to invest in those then mini-tub in 12 months and have to get new wheels and tires again (I'm thinking of going with a steelies/dog dish look).

You hear of guys running insane times on 9" tires...

Thoughts?

Thanks!
 

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Beware of those "pizza cutter" front rims on the street.

I tried the 15 inch 3.5 wide front rims on a 1973 duster front end under my 67
Dart gt with stroked 408 from Summit. WATCH OUT.
Summit's stroked motors come with very deep sump pans, so with the weight of the v-8, small block torsion rods and narrow rims the ground clearance is about the width of three fingers from the ground to the pan bottom.
The moral of the story is NO SPEED BUMPS for me. Oh yea the tire selection
is critical, in 67 the profile of the wheel well/15" wheel/narrow drag rims make
high demands on the correct tire selection....( kudos to Goodyear friends)
My fault as car came home with 9 inch drum brakes on 14 inch rims. not safe
at the track so entire running gear got swapped out.
the point is: do your homework, does the body year, rim/tire combo work on
your intended finished product.....Pending 440 swap in the works. Arnold
 

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Do it now you won't regret it later.

My car should be on the road in a couple of months. Finally decided to just pay a shop to complete what I cannot do at this time. Here's the details:

CURRENTLY
538 Stroker - dyno'd at 665 HP and 680 TQ. TQ comes in low - nice fat torque curve with 500 lb-ft on tap starting at about 2500 rpm.
727
3.91 posi 8.75
SS springs
Snubber
Frame tied
offset shackle (not relocated)

So as i make the final decisions i have to weigh money vs style vs performance. Due to $$$ I'm going to stick with the 727 as opposed to a 4 speed or 5 speed swap (should save me about $4K but I'd love to do this at some point). I will start off with the current 3.91 in the 8.75 but will likely get a 3.23 gear setup since the car is light and I have so much torque. Possibility for a T56 upgrade or maybe a gear vendors overdrive unit in the future...

This car will not see much if any track time. This is a street car. The body shop massaged the inner quarters and lip to get some extra room under there. I'm waiting to get exact options for tire sizes but let's assume with the current setup I could squeeze a 255 under the car....maybe a 265/275??...

with my setup and power do i have any chance of hooking with a good sticky rear tire at 255? For $2500 i can mini-tub the car and get all the clearance i need. I'm keeping the car looking farily stock and think a 255 or 275 would look cool - particulary if it actually hooked and took off (yes i think the skinnier tire would look cool in this setup). I have to buy new wheels and tires regardless of which size i go with - so i'd hate to invest in those then mini-tub in 12 months and have to get new wheels and tires again (I'm thinking of going with a steelies/dog dish look).

You hear of guys running insane times on 9" tires...

Thoughts?

Thanks!
I have never regretted getting my 67 dart GT minitubbed from the start.
while your welding move the springs in to take advantage of the extra wheel
well depth...... oh yea have you narrowed your axle yet, if not it comes first.
chassis engineering has all the backing plates you'll need. with the correct jig
its a simple operation then you need the right length axles with bigger studs.
I can fit 295/50-15 rubber inside the wheel wells with no lip contact.
I run 285/50-15 MT's at Moroso on Wed nights. they stick very well with the
VHT they spray. Arnold
 

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69 Dart rear wheels/ tyres

Hi Guys,

First post on the forum and hoping you can help me out?!

Got a '69 Dart but the ridiculous new regs here in England say that I can't modify the shell (In other words mini tub) to fit larger wheels without going for a stupidly expensive vehicle inspection test and it would also be given a kit car allocation registration number which makes the car pretty much worthless should I come to sell it
My options are to:
A) Mini tub and use it as a strip only car
B) Mini tub, don't tell the registration office that the shell has been modified which is fine until I have an accident and I am left uninsured (Lawsuits and plenty of time in a prison cell getting passed around the other inmates as a 'play thing' !!)
or C) Fill the stock arches with as much wheel and tyre as possible

Going for option C ( Only because A would get expensive and B would hurt too much!) what is the widest wheel I could get under the stock arches with the springs in the original location - I can't move the springs inboard either according to the regs - I am guessing at about 8" wide??
I am looking to keep a stock ride height too (If possible) what diameter tyre could I go for?
I want to run on Centrelines or maybe Magnum 500's with a good quality street tyre but also change to slicks for the strip (The motor puts out 500hp without the gas turned on) so the tyre size would have to be something that is available as a slick tyre too

Help me out guys, I would really like to keep the car on the street if posssible
 

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A cheap way out of this situation is....

Things to consider are, and not in this particular order 1. total section width of
tire that will fit up into wheelwell on full compression of suspension. ( watch out
for the taper as you move up into the wheel well) You don't want contact at all
especially the inner lip which can razor blade your new tires in a
heartbeat. 2. Probably easiest to put car up on lift at local tire dealer and try to
fit tires by hand up as far as they will go? Center the tire body over the brake
drum and see what clearance you get. remember to get rims just 1 inch narrower than the selected tire and with the correct offset.
Rim selection is covered in a bunch of different
articles on the web so it should be easy to figure out the offset you'll need.
Your tire requirements may affect your selection of available rim choices?
Long live the Queen ! Arnold
 

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Just a small suggestion......

My car should be on the road in a couple of months. Finally decided to just pay a shop to complete what I cannot do at this time. Here's the details:

CURRENTLY
538 Stroker - dyno'd at 665 HP and 680 TQ. TQ comes in low - nice fat torque curve with 500 lb-ft on tap starting at about 2500 rpm.
727
3.91 posi 8.75
SS springs
Snubber
Frame tied
offset shackle (not relocated)

So as i make the final decisions i have to weigh money vs style vs performance. Due to $$$ I'm going to stick with the 727 as opposed to a 4 speed or 5 speed swap (should save me about $4K but I'd love to do this at some point). I will start off with the current 3.91 in the 8.75 but will likely get a 3.23 gear setup since the car is light and I have so much torque. Possibility for a T56 upgrade or maybe a gear vendors overdrive unit in the future...

This car will not see much if any track time. This is a street car. The body shop massaged the inner quarters and lip to get some extra room under there. I'm waiting to get exact options for tire sizes but let's assume with the current setup I could squeeze a 255 under the car....maybe a 265/275??...

with my setup and power do i have any chance of hooking with a good sticky rear tire at 255? For $2500 i can mini-tub the car and get all the clearance i need. I'm keeping the car looking farily stock and think a 255 or 275 would look cool - particulary if it actually hooked and took off (yes i think the skinnier tire would look cool in this setup). I have to buy new wheels and tires regardless of which size i go with - so i'd hate to invest in those then mini-tub in 12 months and have to get new wheels and tires again (I'm thinking of going with a steelies/dog dish look).

You hear of guys running insane times on 9" tires...

Thoughts?

Thanks!
Schumacher makes a "torque control rod" with adjustable ends that you might
find invaluable in the event the rear tires hook and not go up in smoke.
good luck with the build. Arnold
 

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Have a look at this I have met this guy and he knows his mopars, hope this helps
http://www.moparmarketforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=20984&start=100

Hey Bill,just went out and checked for you.
The autodrags I'm using are 4.875" backspace.
The tyres I'm running are 275/60/15 and they are 23-25mm from the spring.
A 5" backspace would work fine.
Just guessing that 5.5" backspace should work but would only be abt 6mm from tyre to rim.
That is,assuming you are trying to duplicate what I've done?

If so,keep in mind I have used the MP offset spring hanger kit.
Also the MP kit suits big bush/bolt springs whereas I've got small bush springs.
What I did was drill a new hole and weld a small bolt size nut in the front hanger.
The hole was placed lower to tuck the wheels up higher in the guards and also paced rearwards a little to allow better clearance for the 28" tall tyre to the front of the rear guard(bottom rear of sill.)

I just thought i would add this bit from there
 

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1969 Dodge Dart Rear Wheel Back Spacing

I know this has been done to death, but my wheel combo is somewhat different. Until I mini-tub and or move the springs in, I have a chance to run a 15x8" Chrome Rally wheel with a 4 5/8" back spacing. Anyone running this size wheel in the rear with stock springs, and what tire size can I go without cutting anything for now? Thanks
 

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Largest Rear Wheel Tire Combo that Will Fite in Stock 69' Dart w/Stock Leafs

Did you see the above post and link
Trying to run the math, thinking that the MP Offset Spring Hanger Kit would move springs in 1.5 - 3", did not help me get my brain wrapped around things when I would be using a 4.625" back spaced wheel in a 69' rear wheel house
 

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Ok i have been setting here read all of these post on tire set up. I have no life wife is at work so whats a guy to do....

Ok i have a 71 dart that i would love to put some 275/60r/15 on her. i have looked at every tire company to see what will work. or will work for me a my money . i DO NOT WHAT TO MINI TUB IT. i read on here where some in put 28x9 M/T on a 70 dart with out moving anything. and the section on them is 11.1 so i go to looking at tire size as far as tire section an tire width. and what i can see with the right B/S i can BF Goodrich 275/60r/15's .Oh i am going to be running a Dana 60 a move the spring over with mopar spring hungers kit and move the rear back about an 1" or so. Here is the break down on them

BF Goodrich 54462 - BFGoodrich G-Force T/A Drag Radial Tires Details
275-Series Tire Width

Tire Section Width on
Measuring Wheel Width*: 11.1'' on 8.0'' Wheel
Tire Overall Diameter: 28.0''
New Tire Roll Out/
Circumference: 88.0''
Tire Tread Depth 1/4''
Wheel Diameter: 15''
Required
Wheel Width: 7.5'' - 9.5''
Revolutions per Mile
at 45-MPH: 743.0
Max Load ([email protected]): 2149 lbs. @ 44 psi

Now with that said what would be the best B/S ????????
 

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That is the perfect non-mini tubbed combo on a Dart. I actually ran 6" bs and sledge hammered the tubs in some to run a M/T 28 12.50 15 ET street on mine but the 5.5" bs would have been fine too.
Your dart looks like my old dart. sweet ride.
Do you have any more pic of your dart . of the rear tires rear frame. if so i would love to see them. from what i can see in your pic and from what you said. that may be what i am looking for. thank seen pic to my e mil please..
[email protected]
 

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Just finished my minitub and spring relocation, picked up about 3.75" each side. I put some adjustable 1" lowering blocks, they are adjustable to move the rearend front or back on each side. It's not moved back much, maybe 3/8" of an inch.

Wheels are weld prostars 15x10 with 7.5" backspacing, tires are MT ET/street 295/55/15. They are a bit over 12" wide, and fit with room to spare. Next time I'll probably go with 325/50s.

Front: Diplomat disc brake setup
Weld Prostar 15x5", 3.5" BS, BF Goodrich Traction TA 205/70/15 (26.3" tall)



 

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1974 dart swinger widest rear tire size?

i just got a 74 dart swinger stock location leafs and wheel wells,im looking for wheels to .would it be possible to run a 275/60/15 with the rite back spacing?ill have those people come and roll the fender lip in.i really need to find some wheels because it has those ugly 18'' gangsta dayton spokes on it lol.
 

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I just purchased a 69 Dart that has an 8 3/4 narrowed 2 in./side,3" inboard kit,15x10 steel wheels w/dog dishes with M/T's 29x12.5x15 sportsmans with stock wheeltubs I am not sure on the backspacing I have yet to bring the car home.There is lots of clearance between the leafs and the wheelwell when I first seen the car I thought for sure it was tubbed I am very happy with the tire width and not having to cut the car up.I would guess this would be the biggest tire you can fit with stock tubs.
still have the dart? i would like to see pictures. i am trying to decide "to mini tub" or not. I'm moving springs in and Diff back approx 1", narrowing rear (not sure how much to cut) trying to fit as much tire (275/60R15 BFG's minimum) as possible without touching lip moldings or jacking up the rear to clear the quarter etc.
sorry if this question has been beat to death.
thanks BBD
 

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i am trying to decide "to mini tub" or not. thanks BBD
I'm not sure how much engine you have or what look you re going for. An easy(er) mod to do is to run offset hangers. With offset hangers you can run 26x10.50's. You should be able to hook up most combos on that tire/slick. Assuming your suspension is setup properly of course.
 
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As so many before me have pondered "the 275/60R15 is big enough" then later find themselves mini-tubbing because they have outgrown that look.
I don't intend to race the car but I'm sure I'll make a pass or two. All this work is more for looks and fun to drive than anything else. With that said, I'm relocating the springs, moving the axle back and narrowing it trying to fit the BFG's on a 15x10" rim and keeping the rear of the car low without cutting the outer wheel molding or lip.
What am I going to have trouble with? Do I have to use a 8" rim? How far back to move the axle? How narrow should I make the rear? :banghead :Bla
thanks bbd
forgot to mention Super Stock springs or Extra Heavy Duty Springs from Mancini?
 

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photos added to my album as last day as a small block.
 
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