Big Block Dart Forums banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello I'm looking for advice on what to do to my dart, just to make it all round better, and hopefully better at the track. As far as I know the whole suspension is stock except for the adjustable air shocks out back. I do plan to put a B-body 8-3/4 in when money and time allows, but currently I belive there is a 8-1/4 in there. So I would like advice on shocks, springs, torsion bars, basicly anything that would imporve the car, I'm not to picky about a rough ride or anything so all comments are welcome. Also should I install subframe connectors, if so what kind, bolt in or weld, dosn't matter, also where to puchase would be nice too. I just want my car to do well, and to beat my friends Monte Carlo_Oh yea I should metion that I own a dart sport. Thanks.  
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
For a beginner street car I would do the following:

1. trash the air shocks for some real shocks
2. super stock springs in the rear...with an adjustable pinion snubber
3. keep the 6 cyl. torsion bars in if that's what you already have....
4. yes, add the frame connectors....weld them in as well as adding a few welds connecting the floor pan to the frame connectors.
5. you'll never get a "b" body 8.75 to work, you need to locate an "a" body rear end housing.
6. If you have a welder you may also want to relocate the rear springs inward with a relocation kit readily available. This will allow for wider tires.

many parts you will need can be located at:

http://www.manciniracing.com/
http://www.moparts.com/

Figure out what you want & do it once....it's alot cheaper.
Good luck & keep us informed on your ideas & progress. Don't be afraid to ask questions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the advice, I belive that it currnetly has v-8 bars it cause it orignaly had a 318 in it. And what kind of shocks would you recomend, brand and rebound/valving.... I was planning on having the axle cut down, becuse I can get it dirt cheap. Where could I pick up a set of subframe conectors?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
400 Posts
(Quote) 5. you'll never get a "b" body 8.75 to work, you need to locate an "a" body rear end housing.
I have a 68 or 69 Roadrunner 8 3/4rear, and SS springs, with pinion snubber, from the roadrunner in my old race car. 1973 Duster that I ran at the track from 1988 to 1995.I still have the car sitting in my garage. Anybody interested in it??  Haven't used it since 1996. Completely together, motor trans rear. Ran 13.0ets on motor , and ran 11.5et with nitrous. I only ran nitrous for about 6 weeks at end of 1 year. The rear wasn't narrowed,  spring perches were moved in. Tires stuck out about even with bottom of fender well. Car hooked good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
defenitely get rid of the airshocks, the upper mount isn't made to handle all that weight, I've heard of the upper mount busting loose and going straight up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Air shocks are trash.
if you want off the shelf stuff i used sensatracks for a bronco II. they are cheap and easy to get at any auto parts.
the super stock springs are not the best choice for a handling car but they do make it hook up nice.
If it doesnt have disc brakes they should be the first priority.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the advice, Dartsport, would you recomond putting the B-body axle in? Currently money is an issue so the B-body axle is the most tempting, but if you guys recomend something else, I should start saving my pennies now.  Also when running that axle what was your rim and tire choice, and measurments?  I would be willing to spend a bit more on shocks and springs and such so feel free to recemond something a bit more on the expensive side like QA1 or something like that, I don't like to be cheap I like to have quality parts, I wana do it right the first time. Also the car currently has disk up front and drums in the rear. Any more advice is welcome, every small bit helps, espically when your a newbie like me.  Also could some one tell me where I could pick up a nice/decent set of subframe connectors, 'cuz I have no idea. Thanks for all the help, this site rocks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
400 Posts
I put the b-body rear in mine back around 1983, because I already had it and the ss springs from one of my old cars. It didn't cost me anything. Back then I didn't mind if the tires didn't fit under the wheel wells. It will work, just not as nice as an a-body rear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
You can get steel for your frame connectors for well under $100. The tech pages make it real easy. You can see mine in the photo gallery. Do you have access to a welder?

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
To answer your question b569rr yes I do have access to a welder, where whould I get the steel? And a question for Dartsport, what rims and tires did you have on that Duster? If you could post or send me a pick that would be great because I would like know what it looks like. And any advice on shock and spring choice would be helpful too. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
400 Posts
I have 1 picture of my old car here at work. I will take it home with me and see if I can scan it, and post it here. I think I ran 28" and 29.5" slicks on it .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
400 Posts
Hereis a picture of the car from summer of 1990 at Numidia Dragway. The rear and SS springs are from a B-body. Moved perches in. The car sits in my garage beside my Dartsport at this time. Haven't used Duster since 1996. Not the best picture. I might have another picture. I have to check.

[attachment deleted by admin]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
400 Posts
Found another picture from 1990 Bracket finals, with 1973 Duster.

[attachment deleted by admin]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
You can look up steel distributors in the phone book and find an outlet. the problem with this is that you are going to pay a minimun of $100 for a cash purchase.

I recommend that you all try this if applicable. I found this place called www.metalsupermarkets.com . I happen to have two near me. It is like a department store full of steel / metal products. There is no minimum price and they carry most popular sizes. I was even able to work on the prices. You are in and out unlike the large steel vendors.

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Dartsport, would you recomend putting the axle in or should I save my pennies and have it cut down or search for an A-body axle? Becuse as far as I know I'm getting this alxe for dirt cheap, if not free, so I'm wondering if my money would be better spent elseware.  Also what kind of backspace where you running on those rims? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
In some of the pics in the galleries and such I seen the subframe connectors comming up through the floorpan, is this the best way to do this?In the tech pages it dosn't show them comming close to the floorpans, I'm just curious becuse I'm looking to buy the steel soon so I'd like an idea of what to get, and how to go about installing it. Also I'd really like to know what you guys would recomend for the rear springs and shocks, becuse the scocks I have need to go and I want a good set up, so I would the SS springs be needed or recomended? The car will probably see both street and track with more emphasis on the track. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
177 Posts
Dartsport said:
(Quote) 5. you'll never get a "b" body 8.75 to work, you need to locate an "a" body rear end housing.
I have a 68 or 69 Roadrunner 8 3/4rear, and SS springs, with pinion snubber, from the roadrunner in my old race car. 1973 Duster that I ran at the track from 1988 to 1995.I still have the car sitting in my garage. Anybody interested in it??  Haven't used it since 1996. Completely together, motor trans rear. Ran 13.0ets on motor , and ran 11.5et with nitrous. I only ran nitrous for about 6 weeks at end of 1 year. The rear wasn't narrowed,  spring perches were moved in. Tires stuck out about even with bottom of fender well. Car hooked good.
I agree totally with dartsport.  I had a 75 Dart Sport that I ran a b-body 8 3/4 in and a 71 Duster that I ran a b-body Dana 60 in.  You'll want to use a 68 or 69 like dartsport recommended since they are a bit narrower than the 71 and later models.  If you want to keep a wide tire inside the fender you can get 10" rims with 6.5" backspace and get the spring relocation kit with offset hangers and offset shackles, I used that kit since back then I didn't have a welder.  It only moves them in about 3/4" on each side but I was able to put 12" wide tires in there without a rub, however I did beat the inside of the fender lip tops up flush to the inside of the fenders to make sure.  I wish I had pictures of either, but the Dart Sport is long gone and the Duster now has an a-body 8 3/4 and an auto trans now since I'm getting ready to sell it soon.

I don't see any reason to spend big bucks on an a-body housing or pay to have a C-body or a truck one narrowed when you can still find b-body complete rears for right around $100 and they are already big bolt pattern. 

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
I wanted mine to go through the floor pan. This will make the car more structurally sound. They only stick up about 3/8" and carpet can hide that. PM me when you get close and I can walk you through it.

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
You could take a C body 8 3/4 and have it cut to A body size. Then use the C body backing plates and drum set up. The C body axles can be cut and resplined to fit the axle housing, then mount the spring perches and install.
 
G

·
Summit Sells subframe connectors for an A-body for around $150.00 per pair ready to install, I bought a pair and I will say that they are a nicely built component for the price. It is a really great deal considering the time savings in mock up and fabrication time spent on your back looking up at the underside of your car before any kind of welding can be started
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top