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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
???working on a 73 duster and can't get a brake pedal. All new brake compnents.The car has manual disc brakes(converted from power)
I used the brake push rod from one of my other cars that had manual drum brakes.Is this the right rod to use?It measures just over 6
inches from the tip that goes into the master to the center of the bolt hole at the brake pedal end.The brake pedal almost goes to the floor before you get resistance.I've bled the brakes multiple times and no air comes out of the system.Is it possible that the valve in the distribution
block has moved to the far end and can't return to it's proper posiition. tnku tnku o----o<>
 

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One way to check your brake problem would be to put plugs right at the master cylinder where the lines go in , with those plugged assuming the master cylinder has no air and is in good working order [not bypassing] you should have a very firm pedal . If you don't then there is a problem with too short of linkages. If you do have a good pedal now then you have air in the system somewhere from the master out. Hope this helps
 

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Did you "Bench bleed" the master cylinder?
Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes I did the strange thing is each coner of the vehicle bleeds properly but the pedal won't come up
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just had a thought does it make a differance which side you mount the calipers on. Mine are towards the
rear of the vehicle with the bleeder screws on the top ??? ???
 

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The bleeders need to be on top Mike, since the air will rise to the highest point. I don't have any suggestions except what you have already tried.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
new calipers pads flex hoses(f&r) all new steel lines new spring kit on rear shoes etc etc etc as far as the rear shoe adjustment the drums
have a fair bit of resistance to slide them over the shoes.When you apply the brake pedal all the way to the floor you can't turn the drums
but you can still rotate the rotors.Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey Jim I assume you mean check for obstructions.If somebody sits in the car and pushes the pedal if I open the bleeder thr fluid
streams through the hose I've attached to it as if everything is fine ??? ???
 

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isnt there a return spring on the brake pedal?  is that broken or missing?
also, is the proportioning valve adjusted properly?
 

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No, there isn't a return spring on the brake pedal. Sounds a lot like the master is bypassing. I know you said all the componets were new, but what type is the master? A new aluminum master, or a remanned cast iron? I had a couple of "rebuilt" cast iron master flake out on me soon after install (one didn't even make it off the bench). Get someone to pump the pedal and check out the rubber line on the front to see if they are expanding or not. Also (this is kinda a dumb question) you do have the correct ports on the master hooker to the correct points on the prop valve right? Is this a disc conversion, or did it come with discs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
hey Lars the car was already disc brakes. The car was completly disassembled for a ground up resto.I reused the master and prop valve that
was on the car prior to the resto. It all worked fine before. The items I did change are power to manual disc brakes and 11 inch rear brakes
and like I had mentioned earlier that I used the push rod from a manual brake drum car. I don't know what the length this rod should be.
And to answer your question Jim the bleeders are on the top.I'll double check where I've placed the lines into the distribution block.I'm
sure I did it as per the shop manual.
 

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Sometimes the rod that contacts the MC are adjustable on some boosters. Maybe you aren't getting full engagement?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just finished double checking the lines going to the prop valve. Everything is in the correct location. In the shop manual it mentions
if you have a front brake failure that a valve in the prop valve moves into a bypass mode giving you brake pressure to the rear of the
vehicle.I mentioned in an earlier post that the rear drums do stop turning when the pedal is almost on the floor but the rotors still turn
 
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