[Darren]

Hey guys how are you. I have have my car (68 Dart) stripped to the metal for about 6 months now. The painter is coming to prime the car in my garage within a month. how should I prep the metal before he primes it? I have noticed a bit of surface rust starting in a few spots were people have touched the bare metal with there bare hands. Thanks guys Darren

 

[71 demon child]

First,tell whoever is touching your car to quit touching it ctfgt.You're definitely going to have to re-sand the areas of surface rust.Where ever you see any surface rust(look with a microscope,if you don't get it all it will come back to haunt you).There is alot of products out for metal prep but what i would suggest is if your paying this guy good money to do this ,i would contact him and ask him what he wants you to use.Better off though you/he should prep the metal as close as spraying it as possible.The reason i tell you to contact him is because if something goes wrong i wouldn't want to see you get blamed for "the product you decided to use" and end up paying more money to fix the problem.If he uses his products and screws it up it's on him.I would suggest however if he is doing it in your garage make sure you have any silicon based items such as(moulding dressing,tire shine,etc etc,just read the label)to make sure the lids are on and they are a far away as possible.They cause fish eyes.It's been a few years since i've been in the biz so i don't know all the up and coming products.ELDUBB440 will probably give you a shout,i do believe he used to be a jobber.Hell back in the day i just sanded to bare metal,wet it down with Enamel reducer (3812)or laquer thinner and then went behind it with a dry rag and went ot spray'n.Never had no issues.But,things are chang'n.Hope this helps.

carl

 

[dustertogo]

The best thing to do is talk to the painter to see what he wants. If it is bare metal, DA it with 150-180 or so just to remove any scale from setting in bare metal. Any rust can be coated with Rust Mort or some kind of metal prep but make sure you get it clean when you're done cause it is an acid base and if not removed it will effect the paint. But again, talk to the painter because everyone has a certain way they like things done.

 

[eldubb440]

my ears were ringing.......i agree, its up to the guy doin the job. i always start with bare metal. sandblasting is best, but i never blast the exterior skins (sometimes ill hit a badly pitted area, but i try to hit it from an angle) i like to use these stripper wheels; should kick butt on your handprints. they seem to get to the root of just about everything without messin up the metal. i use them on the whole car then i scratch it good with 100 grit, wipe it down with a good cleaner, and prime it with a good epoxy primer. surface rust on the exterior is the biggest problem there is. im also looking into this stuff for badly pitted areas. i have a trunk lid with surface rust issues. http://www.rust-bullet.com/corrosion-rust-experiment/nts/

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[Guest]

Bare metal should be primed first with a self etching primer, a couple coats its very transparent your not trying to cover the metal just seal then you can follow it with laquer primer or epoxy or what ever you want.

 

[dustertogo]

I'd stay away from lacquer primer if it was me. there are MUCH better 2 part primers out there. Epoxy is the best thing to use on bare metal, then a good 2k primer on top of it. Lacquer primer is very old tech stuff and base clear doesn't like to be put over it. Just my 2 cents.

 

[71 demon child]

[]{} laquer is the root of all evil puke;.I knew you'd chime in soon Eldubb ;D.

carl

 

[Lars]

I shot my engine bay with epoxy primer, and that stuff is tough! You could try some of that liquid rust preventative, I used ospho, but first talk to the guy who is going to shoot it like the guys here said.

 

[eldubb440]

[]{} laquer is the root of all evil puke;.I knew you'd chime in soon Eldubb ;D.

carl

yeah, laquer sucks.......the epoxy primers ive used dont require etching primer underneath. they offer excellent adhesion and good anti-corrosive characteristics. geeeez, i sound like a commercial ;D i have seen guys use etching primer under it, maybe some epoxies require it? i use the epoxy thruout the job, nothing else. it fills great, sands nice (wet or dry) and makes for an awesome paintable surface. BUT ALWAYS FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS FOR THE SPECIFIC PRODUCT. i was lucky enough to work in a Porsche resto shop in the 80's. we were using epoxy primer back then. seems like the rest of the world is just catching up. .....Dubb

 

[A13Dart]

Eldubb, do you have any brand names that you like the best? I want to prime an engine bay and then just seal it, no paint at this time.

Laquer primer...you think the job is done, looks good, then the sanding scratches swell up

 

[eldubb440]

"U Tech" is reasonablly priced, i like it; bout a 120 bucks for 6 sprayable qts.......... ive used others. "Glasurit" is BIG MONEY, but my AMX still looks good after 16 years; but any sandable epoxy is superior to a non-epoxy........im sure all the paint companies have there own version. "house of kolors" has epoxy primer priced comperable to U-Tech.. i havent looked into dupont, ppg, lesonal, sikkens, im sure its all good.

 

[71 demon child]

I've always been partial to ppg but like Eldubb said all them brands are going to be decent for epoxy primer.On the ppg note DP 40 has always been a favorite of mine.Comes in various colors.Back when i was using it i don't think it was what you would consider a sandable primer.But you could sand it if you knew what you were doing.It's been a few years so who knows but they probably make a sandable version.See ya fellas and good luck to all.

carl

 

[Darren]

Thanks guys for all the advise I will get a hold of the painter and fill you in on what he says . Darren