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I'ved used both and POR 15 works best in my opinion. Word of advice. Don't get it on you or you'll be wearing black for as long as it takes to grow new skin!

Jims 440
 

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One of the magazines had an independent test a while back, POR vs. Eastwood, they liked the Rust Encapsulator better, they said it prevented "rust creep" better, thats where the rust creeps out from under the product.....I've used the Encapsulator throughout my project and I'm real happy with it, but as with the POR, get it on you and it's there to stay, but atleast you wont rust LOL

Ryan
 

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ZeroRust (basically the same as Eastwoods stuff if not the exact same product).
 
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I have used the por-15 and personally think it sucks. I used it to brush on and it streaked really bad its thin and runny. The can says to put plastic in between the lid and can to prevent it from sticking down and all that did was get the top of the product rock hard. Then I had to poke holes in the hard stuff to get to the liquid. I probably ended up wasting half the can because of that. Then you had to contend with the chunks that drop into the can because it skims over on the top. Pretty un user friendly if you ask me and I will not use it again.
 

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I like the way ZeroRust "soaks" into the metal and stops rust "creep". It's like a convertor/top coat all in one product! The Por-15 applied to my Firebird Trans Am back a few years ago never impressed me, and led me to finding out about the ZeroRust.
 

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Teeto said:
I have used the por-15 and personally think it sucks. I used it to brush on and it streaked really bad its thin and runny. The can says to put plastic in between the lid and can to prevent it from sticking down and all that did was get the top of the product rock hard. Then I had to poke holes in the hard stuff to get to the liquid. I probably ended up wasting half the can because of that. Then you had to contend with the chunks that drop into the can because it skims over on the top. Pretty un user friendly if you ask me and I will not use it again.
to fix that problem put your lid on as tight as posible without wrecking the seal then store your can upside down if the top creates a skin it will now be the bottom get it 8)
 
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Good idea but the plastic I stuck under the lid didn't let you push the lid down tight enough to actually seal without wreaking the seal. Im thinking thats why it skimmed over in the first place. I will be trying the eastwood stuff next time.
 

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I've got a couple tests going with the POR15. I used it for the splash guards behind the front wheels of the Dart and, the acid test or jack acid test depending on your point of view, on the thermostat housing. I have, however, experinced the incredible adhesive property of POR15 quite by accident. I didn't put the palstic under the lid before closing the can and destroyed the can prying the lid off the next time I wanted to use it. It literally took and striaghtened the wavey lip of the paint can area around the lid completely out before forcing me to tear the lid off. That's some serious sticky if you ask me.
As for the tests results, they are going to take some time as the Dart currently is not on the road. But we are hopeful.
 

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Can you put the Rust Encap straight on top of rust? Or do you have to prep the surface first?
 

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I am using ZeroRust on my floorboard project and it seems to be working well. Covers good and the finish is a nice flat black. Not that anyone will ever see it again!
 
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