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I believe the factory started doing a slow transition from brass prop valves to the cast iron ones around the early 70's. Earliest example I can recall of seeing a cast iron valve is in a 71-72 C b body, then I think the E bodies got them in 72 or 73, probably the B bodies around then. I've seen brass valves in A bodies through 74 but after that in 75 most if not all had the cast iron valves. It's just a matter of the factory using up whatever they had in stock and then switching over to something else.
 

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  Let me see if I understand and can confuse everything even more  The photo that Ski posted iss of the Safety Switch its function is to split the front wheel lines and warn of a system failure frot or rear.  The faiilure would be a break in the system that allows the fluid to drain to the point where the spring pressure inside the switch makes contact turning on the light .  To tell you you have lost fluid..the other system will of course work because it is complety seperate from the other.  If you took the safety switch out of the system.  The rear section of the Master plumbs direct and splits at the rear end.  The front section you can split with a tee to do the right and left.  There is no connection to the front and rear inside the switch.  The proporating valve merly allows you to adjust pressyure to the rear so all wheels brake equally..that is in a panic stop you lock front and rear wheels equally.

  Maynard

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This is getting a little confusing, those early renditions were distribution valves with a position forow fluid pressure. The later model combination valves provided some proportioning but this was negated with different tire\wheel combinations. The stand alone proportioning valve is installed in the rear brake circuit and adjusts the amount pressuse to the rears as a safety feature to prevent the rears from locking up first and causing the rear end to come around. www.moparaction.com is the definitive source for brake conversions on Mopar iron and should be consulted for more information.
 

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Per 1967 Dodge/Dart/Charger/Cornet manual
Make your own coclusion.

Maynard

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That looks like an all drum brake warning indicator block from 67 and up when all auto manufacturers had to go to a two reservoir systems by federal law. (MOPAR was cheap and had to be forced) The light comes on after you already feel the brake fail. That's not a pre 73 proportioning valve. Look at the pic I posted and see that the brass block is shaped completely different. I don't think there is many differences in the moving parts of the two I think it's more of a difference in the sizes of the oriffices depending on which route the fluid takes. Of course I could be AFU.
 

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Jim's right on here...my 67 GTS has it behind the block in line about under front area on frame rail..

Ski: Yes it a 67 piece but it is the same as on my GTS with front disc and rear drums. What we have shown here is there is a variety of Valves, Blocks ,Lines and so on on these early models at least. Nice exchange of info Ski!!

Best advice I can give is if your converting strip donor car of every brake part there is. Then you at least have all in hand if you are in doubt on something. If you''r buying a kit get it complete with every thing the manufactuer has for your model.

Brakes the very worst place to try to save money.

Maynard
 

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Jumping in here a late but when I did my disk brake conversion this past winter I got a mopar proportioning valve from Right Stuff Detailing for my Demon. Did not want to put a seperate valve in the line. Cost was $75

Steve
 

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Just to throw out another option im using the PROP-BLOCK from SSBC
its $129.99 in Black but its a Adjustable Proportioning Valve and Distribution Block All-In-One + a brake light switch

 
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