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That new block is nice!
I just put a tee on the fronts, bought a $39.00 adjustable valve for the back and tossed the old stock block. Seems to work just fine. Just lacking the brake warning switch.
 

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1DART440 said:
That new block is nice!
I just put a tee on the fronts, bought a $39.00 adjustable valve for the back and tossed the old stock block. Seems to work just fine. Just lacking the brake warning switch.
After checking how the stock one worked, it got tossed ! []{} That's how mines done.

SIKPUP ;D
 

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496dart...the picture you posted is a valve from a 75/76 A-body w/discs. I have two just like it that I personally removed from the original vehicles (1 from a '76 Valiant w/man discs & 1 from '76 Dart w/manual discs).

I've seen the square brass units mainly in 73/74 disc cars.

I think you're good to go.
 

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SIKPUP said:
1DART440 said:
That new block is nice!
I just put a tee on the fronts, bought a $39.00 adjustable valve for the back and tossed the old stock block. Seems to work just fine. Just lacking the brake warning switch.
After checking how the stock one worked, it got tossed ! []{}  That's how mines done.

                                                                   SIKPUP ;D
So you took the block out and are running with a "T" from the master to the front and a adjustable prop. on the rear? What master cylinder are you using? Manual Brakes? I want to run disc brakes all around.
 
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Finally... something I can contribute to!

I'm a hydraulics instructor at Rosedale Technical Institute here in Pittsburgh, PA and I teach combination/proportioning valves as part of my curriculum. I'd be MORE THAN HAPPY to share what I know about combination and proportioning valves with anyone that cares to know. They are a VERY complicated looking device that is SIMPLE to explain.

Shoot me an email at [email protected] and I'll get back to you!
 

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SIKPUP said:
1DART440 said:
That new block is nice!
I just put a tee on the fronts, bought a $39.00 adjustable valve for the back and tossed the old stock block. Seems to work just fine. Just lacking the brake warning switch.
After checking how the stock one worked, it got tossed ! []{}  That's how mines done.

                                                                   SIKPUP ;D
I'm liking this idea more and more; the warning light is almost useless, anyway. If you wanted to get picky, I guess you can always add a gauge. I'm assuming that this setup works fine using stock size wheel cylinders out back?
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
The Brass block looking prop valve seems to be working on my 70 dart . I have 73 discs on the front .
 

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i am running everything stock for brakes inside of the frame and the rear drums, fronts are 11 3/4

it works great with stock 4 drum prop block but when i put on my 11x2.5 finned drums out back im going to t the front and i got an adjustable valve for the back
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
1Dart440 -----


where can i get the Tee to tie the front lines together ? What size do i need? Im going with the summit prop valve . Im tired of fighting my NEW brake system ! o[ o[
 

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My 70 Duster was factory non power disks up front & when I rebuilt the brakes on it the local part store swore up & down that they didn't come with non power disk's only power. I think the master they gave me was for a drum set up. I've since switched that out for a late model truck aluminum one that I know is a disk master. I swapped out the small bolt pattern disks for 73 single caliper units while retaining the factory brass block. Ever since the brakes were redone with the small pattern & with the big pattern the front wheels will only spin about 1 turn when the front end is in the air. I've checked the wheel bearing several times & they are OK, The only thing I can think is the brass block has takin a dump. Any ideas?
 

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Why don't you just T the fronts and plumb an adjustable Prop. valve to the rears?
 

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I just completed a swap to '70 Duster K/H discs on my 64 Dart, and used a Wilwood proportioning valve for the rear, and blocked the original T so that my new master cylinder would feed from the small bowl to the rear drums, and the larger bowl to the front disks. But after all that work, my brakes aren't so great. I'm hoping maybe re-bench bleeding the master cylinder will purge the rest of the air out, but I'm also thinking of switching to the appropriate combination valve or converting to rear disks, and using a custom p. valve. It seems that air must be in the lines, as I have to pump the brakes for them to really work, but I've bled the calipers and wheel cylinders over and over again. I put the adjustable proportioning valve down low, next to the original combo/T on the frame next to the wheel well. Could this be the culprit? I'm at a loss.
 
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The cast iron unit was what Chrysler changed over to in early 70's. Used the brass one before that. It looks similar to the old brass distribution block that was used starting in 67 when dual master cylinders were mandated and contains the switch that operates the brake light on the dash. The best way to solve the problem is to keep the old distribution block/switch and plumb in the adjustable proportioning valve in the line going to the rear. Reason being, this way, you can set the proportion of the brake pressure to the rear to fit your car. It differs by weight of car, friction lining, condition of discs/drums surfaces, etc. The old proportioning valve was always a compromise. They used the same valve in about everything. Probably wasn't set correctly for any of the cars (and the old units with their rubber gaskets are 35 or so years old so I wouldn't want to trust an old one). Also, master cylinder is different from drum and disc. There is a valve in the lines which I think can be removed on the drum unit. Old wheel cylinders required a hold off valve which are not required now since all replacement wheel cylinders have expanders.

Since brake systems are so important I would ask anyone and everyone to chime in and correct anything that I have got wrong.
 

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I was thinking of using a reproduction brass combination valve for '65 - '73 Mustangs that NPD ( National Parts Depot ) sells. With my Kelsey Hayes Discs in the front and drums in the back, I essentially have the same setup as the 65 Mustang. I'm going to make one last attempt to bleed everything ( again ) before I get rid of the T block ( front ) and Wilwood proportioning valve ( rear ).
 

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I got one of these:



on my '68 Dart retrofitted with a '73 Duster front disk brake setup (Not power brakes).

FWIW, I was told it was a NOS unit as found on Mustangs. Cost was $45.00.

Works great.
 

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I believe I have finally determined that the brass one Mike posted the picture of, and the cast iron Chrysler one are actually both combination valves (proportioning and metering valve combined), which is what I need.  I am wondering if anyone has a factory service manual from around 75, which shows the plumbing connections for the cast iron valve.  Pirate Jack's sells both valves, and I am going to go with the one that will be the easiest fit for my existing lines and wiring.
By the way, a big tnku goes to Mark S for taking the time to explain this stuff to me.
 
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