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is it really a p.v. or just a safety switch? a cutaway pic makes it look like its just a safety switch that turns on the warning light when one half of the system fails. id like to leave it out if possible. isnt the actual proportioning done in the m.c.?
 

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Depends on the brake system, some are just distribution blocks, other's are proportion valves. The all drum systems are just distribution blocks. Starting in '67 they came with warning light switches. Disk had a proportioning valve with warning light switches. So you match the block/valve to the brake system. It's your call on the pv and warning light, you should use an aftermarket pv if you have front disks though. I've ran more then one car on the street without the brake light, but now I'm a little older and at least think about running one now.
 

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I've done many drum-to-disc conversions leaving the stock drum distribution block in place, with no ill affects in braking.
If it really concerns you, get an adjustable proportioning valve so you can set the front/rear bias.

Myself, I wouldn't bother.

Mark.
 

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Mark Nixon said:
I've done many drum-to-disc conversions leaving the stock drum distribution block in place, with no ill affects in braking.
If it really concerns you, get an adjustable proportioning valve so you can set the front/rear bias.

Myself, I wouldn't bother.

Mark.
I did this on my 73 and it stops real well. If you experience rear lockup you can splice in an adjustable valve later on.
 

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When we swapped the front drums to 1973 discs, we retrofitted a new Ford Mustang Proportioning/Metering valve. It works great and fit the existing brake lines perfectly. We also installed a new, apropriate Master Cylinder.
 

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Sweaty Bettys? There was a bar out here in Parker, Co named that. Actually that was nicknamed after the fat broad that owned it. -0*(
 

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Lars said:
Mark Nixon said:
I've done many drum-to-disc conversions leaving the stock drum distribution block in place, with no ill affects in braking.
If it really concerns you, get an adjustable proportioning valve so you can set the front/rear bias.

Myself, I wouldn't bother.

Mark.
I did this on my 73 and it stops real well. If you experience rear lockup you can splice in an adjustable valve later on.
Different size wheel cylinders on the back will help with this, also. I believe they are the ones from the mid-70's vans.
 
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