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ANY ONE KNOW THE IDEAL ALIGNMENT SPEC'S FOR A RACE CAR. JUST THROWING THIS OUT FOR A TOPIC. AND SOME INPUT FROM OTHERS. STOCK FRONT SUSPENSION. REAR SUSPENSION IS LEAF SPRING LADDER LINK AND FLOATING REAR. JUST CHANGED THE TORSION BARS. ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS, AND POLY BUSHINGS. CASTER? CAMBER? TOE? (STOCK RIDE HIGTH) o----o<> ctfgt

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Hi, I'm a Master Certified tech, I've done alot of alignments I've set alignment angles to nominal factory specs with no problems. On my 70 Dart I set all alignment angles to nomial settings, steers great, no wondering and tracks great. I've ran 10.83 @127mph on street M/T tires with no problems. Find a good alignment shop and have them set all adjustments to nominal settings and you should have no problems.........
 

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Hi again, Thinking about your question a bit more I didn't really answer your question, First set tire psi, set ride height, most of the time camber is set to 0 degrees, caster is 2-4 degrees positive, and total toe to 0-1/8th toe in. Hope this helps.........Matt
 
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THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT. I'M ALMOST READY TO HEAD TO THE ALIGNMENT SHOP AND I WILL TAKE THESE SETTINGS WITH ME. ALL I WANT TO DO IS GO STRAIGHT AND AS LITTLE DRAG ON THE FRONT END AS POSSIBLE. I TAKE IT A 4 WHEEL ALIGNMENT WOULD BE BEST. o----o<>
 
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It`s a topic heavilly detailed in the Direct Connection "Bible" . Everybody should have atleast one copy !
Chryco ;)
 
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NEVER THOUGHT OF THAT! I DON'T HAVE A BIBLE. WILL HAVE TO GET ONE SOON! o----o<> ctfgt tnku

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When you set caster, set both sides the same. This will help keep the car straight. Some factory specs call for more positive on the passenger side to counteract road crown, and most alignment tech's put this in whether it calls for it or not. The race track has no crown. Toe should be 0 to 1/8". 1/8" is to compensate for tire spread. Solid (good) suspension componenents should minimize tire spread at higher speeds. This should get you started. Then get a Mopar chassis manual and read all about setting the alignment for chassis extension, because toe changes when the chassis extends with a normal alignment. A good set of shocks should minimize front end lift and return the car to ride height ASAP while traveling down the track. And put your weights worth of sand bags or lead in the drivers seat when setting ride height. And set it with gas in the tank.
 
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THANKS TEACH, FOR THAT INPUT. I MADE A COPY OF YOUR SUGGESTION THAT I WILL TAKE WITH ME WHEN I GET THE ALIGNMENT DONE. WHEN YOU TALK OF THE TIRES SPREADING. I TAKE IT THAT YOU MEAN THE TOE WILL GET WIDER AS THE CAR GOES FASTER DOWN THE TRACK? I HOPE THAT'S WHAT YOU MEAN OTHER WISE I'M LOST. o----o<> tnku
 

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Yea, that's what I mean. It varies depending on the car and the type of suspension. Ideally, you want toe at 0 degrees but it seldom stays there.
 
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o----o<>TEACH, I GUESS THERE IS NO WAY IN TELLING IF THE TOE IS CHANGING WHILE YOUR GOING DOWN THE TRACK. WHAT WOULD YOU SAY TO DOING ONE ALIGNMENT AT 1/8 AND ANOTHER AT "0". SHOULD YOU SEE A DIFFERENCE IN TRAP SPEED AND OR HANDLING? tnku 0/
 

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Doubtful you would see a difference. Unless the tires were spreeding past zero to toe out. There is a tool that is used to apply pressure between the tires to take the play (if any) out of the toe setting. It's used on some high end cars that run wide/low profile/high speed tires in front. The tool basically pushes the tires apart during alignment settings. It's probably overkill. Just set the tires at 1/8 and make a run.
 

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Another thing to think about for us "big boys" you might want to sit in the front seat while the car is aligned. It does make a difference. Since I started this it has cleared up my top end issues.
 

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here are some specs for 1969.
caster on the plus side increases steering effort but helps stability negative is the opposite.
notice chrysler and the power verses manual angles.

the steering axis inclination will help identify bent parts.

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