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I doubt you'd see hail damage under the vinyl, more like water getting under the top and rusting away things. If the metal is still solid I'd Bondo the depressions with fiberglass bondo, get it smooth, paint it and put on a new vinyl top. The body work under a vinyl top doesn't have to be anywhere near perfect like on painted visible sheetmetal.
 

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Re-skinning the top is no big deal.  We did this to my nephews 'Cuda, and just drilled out the spot welds.  Well, our body guy did most of the work while we stood there in awe...lol!  The factory front and rear seams (on the front post and the rear quarter panel) are a good point to go down to if you can get a donor car with a roof section that good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well it look as if I have a donor that has a great roof.
the fiberglass option sounds the easy way to go, but
I don't like vinyl tops. I have one on the Scamp(weres the barf smily?)
plus I want to paint it that real dark shade of black lol

the rust bubbles remind me of the Ernest scared stupid movie.

any pictures of one being done?

Thanks
 

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We started to do a re roof from a doner car . I removed the front and rear glass, and the drip edge seam sealer then used a cutting wheel with the wheels doubled and ground out the spot welds in the drip edge and window channels. once it was loose around the perimiter, we lifted one side and worked with the seam sealer on the roof crossmembers ( like were the dome light is )and it popped free in one big piece. Did the same thing with the good car. Doner roof laid right back on . all we needed to do was spot weld the holes in and clean it up and re seam seal. We never finished it because we were going to roll cage it ! What a better time to install a cage then when the roof sheet metal is off.

If you can do quarter panels, you can do a re roof !

SIKPUP ;D
 

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Sounds better than i thought. I figured you would have to go at it like you were chopping a top. I didn't know they were spot welded on. Just need to find me a roof now.
 
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