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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the other day I picked up an axle assembly from a '98 grand cherokee. I got it from a place that specializes in jeeps. they said that the bearings went out of it...........so I got the whole deal for $100 ;D I am in the process now of drilling out the brackets to fit my 8 3/4. by the time I drill out the hole in the right place there's not much metal left on the bottom.......might end up reinforsing it, or shouldn't I wory about it? 4 bolts was enough for the cherokee.

what do you guys (and gals) think? I'll get some pics up soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I got the 5th hole to line up, but when I tried to put in the axle I noticed that the opening was too small. It took about an hour w/ the dremel tool to get it the right size. there's a bevel on the hole, if you open it up to that point the axle will fit thru

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
this is what the back looks like after I cut out for the 5th stud. I might have to beef it up in a couple places.

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As long as you use the best hardware you can get to attach the brake arbors to the housing I think you are OK. You may have trouble with the axle bearing endplay adjustment if the brake arbors are a lot thicker that the backing plates for the drums. I would also mock up the axle and rotor to see if the rotors are centered where the brake pads mount on the arbor because the offset on the axles could be different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
after spending yesterday repeating what I did to the pasenger's side, I got things mocked up this morning. one other small modification you have to make to the backing plates is to "dent" them above the parking brake adjuster hole. there's a ridge there that won't let the axle flange bolt up. the axles sit further outboard then stock, but I wouldn't think this would be a problem other then maybe using longer studs.

Here's what things look like mocked up.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
here's the drivers side. I also reused the cherokee's divider block......I'll have to fab new hard lines though.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
back side w/ stock brake hoses.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
pasengers side back view

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
passengers side, side view. I'll get some more pics after I get it under the car. I'm wating to run new brake lines untill then anyway. I'll have to fab up some mounts tor the flex lines too.

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How about some pics of the Ebrake cables? Can you use the Abody cables or do you need the Jeep cables or custom? Dave
 

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Are you using the stock tapered axle bearings? If you are there will be too much end play because of the thicker backing plates. If you run the green bearings you will need to make shims that are as thick as the new backing plates are wider than the orignals and put them in the housing before you install the axle. Allmost any good machine shop should be able to make the shims. The conversion looks cool but make sure it is safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
the bearings are what came on the axles...Timkin # M201011. the housing is a B body unit w/ the spring perches moved in, it was like that when I bought it, don't know what it came out of. so I need a shim to go in the axle tube for the bearing and race to but up against? doesn't sound too bad. here's the axle.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
the brake cables I think would have to be jeep, or from a car w/ a similer setup. as you can see there's a rectangular slot on the end of the cable. the other ends have a bullet end on them.

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Those timkin races on your axle must push on the bearing. The axles actually push against each other through a spacer in the differential and the outer races hold them in place. With the stock timkin tapered roller bearings you would need to put a shim outside the outer bearing race to take up the increased thickness of the backing plate. That would mean having to replace the bearings to install the shim. You might as well use the sealed green bearings that do away with the tapered bearing set up and go with the shim on the inside. Keep in mind the rotor has to be in the middle of where the pads sit. The E-brake cable ends look a lot like the ones on the ford brakes I am adapting to my dana 60.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
mischiefdart said:
Those timkin races on your axle must push on the bearing. The axles actually push against each other through a spacer in the differential and the outer races hold them in place. With the stock timkin tapered roller bearings you would need to put a shim outside the outer bearing race to take up the increased thickness of the backing plate. That would mean having to replace the bearings to install the shim. You might as well use the sealed green bearings that do away with the tapered bearing set up and go with the shim on the inside. Keep in mind the rotor has to be in the middle of where the pads sit. The E-brake cable ends look a lot like the ones on the ford brakes I am adapting to my dana 60.
so to use the stock bearing set up I would have to ues a spacer to move the bearings back in where they were. the axles would still be 1/4" outboard of the stock location on both sides.........thats a 1/2" gap at the ends, right?

if I use the sealed bearings, does the spacer go on the inside of the bearing or in between the axles to counter that 1/2" gap? also what is the part # for the green bearings?
 

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You are correct about the axles needing to be in the stock location with the stock bearings. That means the wheel flange will be farther in too. You need to mock up everything and see where the wheel flange needs to be to have the rotor centered in the brake pad register. It might be that you want the wheel flange in the stock location for rotor offset rather than moved out by changing to the sealed bearings. I don't know the part number but any of the big rear axle vendors (Randy's, Reider Racing, West Coast Diff) would have them on their website.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
this is starting to sound like I just blew $100 for no reason..........wich kind of sucks when I have $0 income right now. **(*)

ok now that I've vented. this looks like it can work.......we just have to sort out the endplay issue. right now if I bolt everything up it looks like the rotors line up ok......maybe not perferct, but close enough. the parking brake shoes sit right aginst the backing plate, so if I move the alxe in the backing plate has to be moved the same distance or the shoes will be outside the rotors. to get the axles in the stock location I would have to put the brake arbors behind the flanges while keeping the backing plates in the front.......thats not going to work because I'de have to rework the parking brake actuator.

alright, short of cutting down the hausing 1/4" on both ends....would it work to move the bearings in using a spacer, and then put a shim between the axles? now I would be short 1/4" of splines, but would this hurt anything behind a mild 440 w/ an open 3.23?
 

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Those look like good brakes. I don't think you wasted any money only you are going to have to spend more. If you shorten your housing and buy custom axles you can put the wheel flange exactly where you want itand have good brakes that you can buy parts for at any jeep dealed. Probably for less money than some cheap ass Taiwan aftermarket disc kit. Not a bad plan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hell, If I start adding things up I'm ahead of the game parts wise, so I can't complain too much. new calipers alone are $120 each ( $80 w/ $40 core charge). salvage yard would have wanted $50 or so each for the arbors. I'll still need new pads and rotors, but thats when my cash flow picks back up.

if I get the green bearings do they still use that collar that has to be heated then installed aginst the bearings? If that is elininated it would be worth it.

second issue, would I be better off w/ longer custom axles or to chop the housing......I'm thinking axles but could use a second opinion.

I haven't realy looked at the aftermarket, but don't most of these kits out there go for upwards of $500? and they use GM style calipers o[ got to keep things mopar! ;D
 
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