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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's not an A boby but it is the Dart's big brother.

A friend of mine at work asked me to come over and look at his car. Ten years ago he bought a running condition 3 '68 B5 Coronet R/T convertible. That has got to be rare. Anyways he lets it sit outside for about 5 years. It got full of water and the floors and truck rotted out.

Two years ago he stripped it down to the shell, and had it sand blasted. It has been on a rotiserie ever since. He put in new floors with a flux core machine and blew dime size holes in the pans and the welds look like bird poop. I offered to fix these for him. One thing about him he is not afraid to try things himself.

The sand blasting had revealed some nasty patch panels and cancer on both rear quarters. He ordered replacement quartersHe wants me to help him out which I will. I have never replaced a rear quarter (usually not needed in the NW). What kind of pointers can you give me. Being a super rare car I want to be extra careful. Welding is not a problem for me.

I know I will have to support the bottom of the car to minimize flex. Are adjustable stands good enough or would you weld up a steel support box under it? I'm sthinking I would need some adjustabiliy. I have no idea if the car is straight or not due to being suspended for a few years. the car doesn't have frame connectors and has never been in a wreck. The convertible torque boxes are intact.

Thanks for any help.

Tom
 

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make sure the door hinges are good, no play at all. as jim said, you really should have the doors on for alignment purposes. this will also help in making sure the car is sitting right. i think id take the car off the rotisserie and set it on stands. get it sitting so the door gaps are uniform, lines line up and the doors close real nice. go from there. i know you have plenty expeirence welding, but you have to be careful with how cheap these 1/4 skins are. just a tad too much heat and they will walk all over the place. i would also suggest using as little of the new 1/4 as possible as they really are crap compared to the o.e. stuff. you want the seam to be as close to some sort of brake or edge in the panel to help keep things strait. i like to keep my welds to 1/2" or less, jumping around of coarse, and quenching the weld with compressed air.
 

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you want to keep the car supported by as much of the frame as possible. we just a frind of mines road runner on one and we actually welded the frame to our frame work and its not on wheels so we can make sure ther is little to no movement
we braced the middle of the b pillar to the lower portion of the a pillar after we made sure the doors were hanging properly and then braced the b pillars together to keep the vehicle from flexing or stop as much as we could. we even braced between either sides of the decklid to keep it from moving probablly a little bit of overkill but it never hurts
 

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GET THE CAR ON THE GROUND PUT IT ON STANDS AND CHECK THE DOOR GAPS!! BEFORE CUTTING YOU QUARTERS OR YOU'LL BE SORRY doh LOTS OF FLEX IN A CONVERT..JIM
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the comments everyone. Iwill post pics when I start this project. We will get the dorrs and front quarters on and get this thing supported. I hope the R/T hasn't started bending being up there so long.

Tom
 

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The right 1/4 on my Dart has been the big hang up for me. Some step by step pics would be worth putting in the tech section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
sr71mopar said:
The right 1/4 on my Dart has been the big hang up for me. Some step by step pics would be worth putting in the tech section.
Will do. It will be a few weeks. I am going to Oregon on business for a week and then we will regroup.

Tom
 

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sr71mopar said:
The right 1/4 on my Dart has been the big hang up for me. Some step by step pics would be worth putting in the tech section.
I did the quarter on my Duster. Don't have step by step but do have some pics on my little site. Just takes time and patience.
 
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