Rear springs relocation ??

Thanks for the replys. I haven't decided which way I'm going to go with the rear spring relocation, but if I do go with cutting the frame rails I am going to use thicker metal and make my own boxes for the front springs to mount to. After reading the responses I do believe inside the frame would be easier but it will affect the roll center of the car, how much I don't know. I'm concerned if I ever get sideways the car may want to roll to one side too much and then when I try to steer out and the car comes back the other way it could really roll the body of the car thereby just creating a whipping effect and a complete out of control nightmare, at least until I hit the guardrail or worse yet the other car. This may not be a real valid concern as others have done it inside the frame rails and not had any problems.

Just thought I would thank you guys and let you know what I'm thinking.

I have one more wheel well to finish moving and then its decision time. o[

Pete

I'm not trying to convince anyone to do it my way. If I was going to build a car to handle I would leave them where the factory put them. IMO, I'm more concerned on how the thin mopar boxes and the even thinner frame rails are flexing or trying to bend if the car got sideways. Seen cracks in the frame rails from the mopar kit flexing. The factory frame rails are just too thin to trust. I just bought a 69 dart a few months ago that already has the mopar kit in it. I will be cutting it back out and fixing the frame rails back. Then i will do it my way. I used 3/16" steel to build them inside the frame and i would trust it a 1000 times over the mopar kit. I built that purple dart for a friend of mine. So his son could bracket race. It runs 7.0's in the 1/8. And drives so straight and smooth you would think in the a 10 second street car. I invite any of you to call him before you cut up your frame rails and ask the guy about how his Son's car drives. PM me for his #. I wouldn't have built it for them if i thought it was unsafe. The holes i seen enlongate in the mopar boxes were in bracket cars. Those cars never left straight because of the rear end moving around. And a plus with the way i do it... I can build a new inner frame rail and do the tubs all the way to the original inner frame rail. Gives me room for a 13x31 slick easy.

I finished my wheel mini-tubs. I did it just like the tech article, everything went just like in the article. Thanks to bbdart and whoever wrote the article. I started on my relocation of the rear springs. I cut the frame rails and am doing it just like in the tech article on relocation of the springs. I used the Mopar boxes but I re-enforced the boxes a little. I am also going to add large washes to each side of the bolt that hold the front of the spring, weld the washers to the box. This should be plenty of re-enforcement to eliminate any chance of hammering the holes bigger in the future. Then when I weld in my frame connectors I am going to come all the way back to the new spring boxes I just put in. I won't know for sure for a while, but I think I am adding enough re-enforcement to eliminate any problems. I even thought of cutting the bottom out of the frame rail connector right where it would meet up with the spring boxes, leaving the sides, drilling holes for the spring bolt, then welding that solid to the boxes. I would end up with almost 1/2 inch of metal on each side of the spring boxes. I know that would be plenty. Probably overkill, but I really can't say "too much" when it comes to the safety end of it. I spent a least twice as much time laying under the car thinking about how I was going to do this, than I did actually doing the work. But I am pleased with how things are going so far.

Thanks to all for the responses.
Pete