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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for the easiest way to hook up better without majorly cutting and removing metal from my dart. I'm going with a magnumforce front tubular k member:

and I want to know what else I can do to improve traction on the rear end something with adjustible coil overs. Just I don't wanna start hacking up to much stuff.


I'm also going with their engine bay triangulation kit:


I may use their subframe connectors their simply two tubes welded together and at the ends with plates to connect to existing frame rails
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The bar that gets welded to the firewall and frame connects right on top of the shock mount with a braket to strengthen it.
 

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My suggestion would be to scrap the magnum force front idea all together. Get a ALTERKATION from RMS .Even though I don't want one I can tell you from everything that I have read they are the better front end .They are definately beefier you won't need the kit to strengthen the front shock towers.And they are a bolt in none to very little cutting up of your car. Do a little more research for your front end if that's the type of front end you want!I believe that down the road you will be much happier .Make your own sub frame connectors like you said they are just simply two tubes welded together I believe that one square tube would be stronger .And you can get it at a metal shop relatively inexpensive.
 

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If you are going with a front end kit, do your homework and ask around on this board and on other boards. I have heard that the Magnum Force front end kits are not that good compared to others such as RMS stuff. Actually many owners of the Magnum Force front end kits were so disappointed with them that they took them off and went with the RMS front end kit and were extremely happy.
ASK around before you dish out all that money.

gt
 
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I won't get into suspension mudslinging, use what you like. But I did want to say you should check out www.uscartool.com for frame connectors. Nice laser-cut piece that forms to the bottom of the floor. It's such a novel idea I can believe no one has done it before. I have regular tube ones myself and am going to cut them out to use the better form-fitting ones....

According to John, the A-body version should be done soon. I have my order in already :)


As for rear suspension, if you deviate too far from leaf springs, expect cutting. To get the adjustability you need for a good strip car you're going to be doing some fab work to fit the brackets and links in there. I'm working on a system for the rear right now, but I'm working on the handling aspect - strip use might be questionable unless I can add enough adjustment to increase anti-squat geometry. I'll know more through the winter about that one, but I'm not counting on stellar strip performance.
 

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Bill_Reilly said:
But I did want to say you should check out www.uscartool.com for frame connectors. Nice laser-cut piece that forms to the bottom of the floor. It's such a novel idea I can believe no one has done it before. I have regular tube ones myself and am going to cut them out to use the better form-fitting ones....

According to John, the A-body version should be done soon. I have my order in already :)
ive dealt with john at uscartool....good guy. just thought id mention it.
 

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MyCreation68 said:
I'm looking for the easiest way to hook up better without majorly cutting and removing metal from my dart. I'm going with a magnumforce front tubular k member:

and I want to know what else I can do to improve traction on the rear end something with adjustible coil overs. Just I don't wanna start hacking up to much stuff.


I'm also going with their engine bay triangulation kit:


I may use their subframe connectors their simply two tubes welded together and at the ends with plates to connect to existing frame rails

you better second think that. or atleast do your homework about that frontend. there are guys on other sites that had send that front end back twice till one actually fit... then it steered like crap.. theres guys out there that had that magnum force front end in the car and pulled it out and bought the alter-k-tion . now thats a pretty big loss to take if you ask me.... i'm running the alter-k in my dart and let me tell you it is awesome....
 

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I see that no one has really addressed the traction issue. Without question the best system to go with without cutting or fabrication is the Cal Trac's with the split monoleaf springs and the Rancho 9000 shocks. This is basically a bolt in 4 link system. Check out www.calvertracing.com for testimonies about this system and if you want it, call up Mancini Racing for the best deal on it. The whole system will run you around $800 shipped to your door and it is all bolt in. I just installed this system on my 65 Belvedere and I will provide some pictures later this week after I get my SSBC breaks installed.

Bill,
 
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eldubb440 said:
Bill_Reilly said:
But I did want to say you should check out www.uscartool.com for frame connectors. Nice laser-cut piece that forms to the bottom of the floor. It's such a novel idea I can believe no one has done it before.  I have regular tube ones myself and am going to cut them out to use the better form-fitting ones....

According to John, the A-body version should be done soon. I have my order in already :)
ive dealt with john at uscartool....good guy. just thought id mention it.

heck, i put these in 1 1/2 years ago. homemade! %) %) maybe i oughta file for a patent!

[attachment deleted by admin]
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I honestly like the look of the MagnumForce system better but this is why i post up if somebodty knows something I don't it's always nice to know. Thanks guys. lol it's gonna cost me 37,000 dollars to get my dart done and thats just parts to do it the way I want:
-built 383 (Indy Big EZ Heads, 440 Source Stroker Kit 383->496)
-Keisler 5 speed complete auto to manual conversion kit
-Rebuilt 8 3/4 axle
-Interior
-Wiring
-etc.

And that doesn't even include the bodywork or paintjob lol
 

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I honestly like the look of the MagnumForce system better
You like the "look" of it better? Is that your only criteria?

-Keisler 5 speed complete auto to manual conversion kit
o[ o[ o[ o[ o[ o[ o[ o[ o[ o[ o[ o[ o[ o[ o[ o[ o[ o[ o[ o[ o[ o[

Dude, all I can say is search for posts both here, and especially over at Moparts. A lot of us have already been down this road.
 
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I'm working with these folks for my T56. http://www.gerkoengineering.com
Geoff and Mark are both good guys and Geoff has been bending over backwards to answer all my questions - with all the problems of some other suppliers, I've been sending them immense emails grilling them for info - they passed my "tests" so I'm going with them.
As for bolt-in, they tell me the 5spd trans isn't dropped down as low as the other guys, which would be a good thing. On a Dart, the T56 requires lots of cutting anyway, so I'm doing my own trans mount and won't be able to give you any input on that area.
They seem pretty straight-up though, so I think if there ARE any issues, they'll warn you ahead of time.
 

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bro, i have an alterkation and i love it. look at it from an engineering point of view. the alterkation bolts in and works great. when MF first released their system, they said a few stiffining plates is all that is required to support their system. after a few cars came down with ICANTOPENMYF#CKINGHOODANYMOREidis, MF came up with their "engine bay triangulation kit". a band-aid to cover up POOR ENGINEERING. if looks are your main concern, buy the MF set up. if you want somthing you can drive and enjoy, i would advise against it. and if i remember correctly, the alterkation has more wheel travel. this affects ride quality, handling, and weight transfer off the line. I.E. 60 foot time.
 
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