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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I started the rear bar today. My set up is a standard length Dana 60 (your 8.75" should allow more room for bar clearance) and relocated super stock springs. I've kept my eyes out on the freeway, checked parking lots etc and found the following bar to be the closest to being able to fit. The 1999 - 2003 Ford F 250 / 350 4 x 4 front way bar. The front leaf springs measure the same outside to outside as a Dart with relocated springs. Unfortunately the bar is 1 1/4" diameter. Is this going to give me a handling problem. I can't see it flexing that much. Maybe it won't be too big of a deal with the narrowed spring centers.

Also, this obviously won't work with Cal tracks.

Anyways here's a few pics.


I forgot to take a picture of the restraining strap before I filled the holes. This bracket measures 5 3/8" long. The old holes have been filled and ground down. It's easiest putting the steel in a vise and perform an uphill mig weld to both sides. It fills fast and no need for copper backing.

cut the brakcet down to 4 3/4" long and redrill 2 -  1/2" holes on 3 1/2" center to center to slide onto your u bolts.

Attach it to the underside of your shock plate. Perfect fit.


Another view.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Re: started custom rear sway bar


Here is the bar. There is 6" of clearance from the face of axle tube flange to outside edge of the sway bar. Disk brake backing plates are flush with the axle tube flanges. Drum brakes will clear but cut down on your clearance.

Actually at least an inch of clearance. Bad picture.

I ran into an unanticipated problem. Notice the clearance between the u bolt front outboard nut and the bar. It is an 1/8" with the ubolt flush with the end of the nut. This pic is taken in the worst case scenario with the springs just barely hanging from the body. I replaced this nut with a standard size grade 8 hex nut. This fixed the problem and I posted a pic a few posts down. The bar interferred with the side of the nut, not the ubolt. It clears now.

This is the bar with the springs in a neutral position. I threw 4 iron BB heads in the trunk to give it some weight. This is the standard 4 x 4 end link. I will mount it tomorrow. I will sleeve the frame rails.

I tried to bottom the axle out but the SS springs are too stiff. I put 4 heads in the trunk, 2 BB Olds cranks, 2 scuba tanks with weight belt, 727 trans and my 250# neighbor (couldn't get the dogs in there) to check bar clearance the other way. clearance improves under the shock plate and the bar has 6" of clearance to the ground with the axles 13.5" off of the ground simulating 28" tall tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: started custom rear sway bar


This is the standard Super Duty 4 x 4 end link. It measures 11.5" center to center. They have neat sealed mechanical pivot bushings on them.

So my questions: Is this big 1 1/4" bar going to hurt my drivability? Remember this is a street car 95% of the time.


Some of you may think I'm wasting my time or adding weight. My reasons for doing this, several people have asked my to take a crack at this.

Also, you can buy a generic bar from some chassis shops. You can also have a bar custom made at some places.
 

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Re: started custom rear sway bar

Excellent work as usual.

My hunch is that the bar is too large for the rear. That's JUST a hunch. Typically, the front bar is over 1" in dia, while the rear bar is about 3/4". I'm thinking you might have some oversteer problems.

You might as well put it in at this point and find out what it does. Personally, I wouldn't go too crazy making it pretty until you know it's going to work out. It would be easy to find a bar larger than the stock Ford part, but probably impossible to find one smaller.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: started custom rear sway bar

Thanks Mark,

I wouldn't recommend anyone try this until I verify that it works. I have 1" rear bars on my RR and GM A bodies with 1 1/8" and 1 1/4" up front respectively. I can't find anything smaller than what I found and it only cost me $25. Honestly I didn't know it was 1 1/4" until I measured it at home. It didn't look that big sitting under the Dana that I pullled it off of. Removing it wouldn't take anything, just have a couple sleeves in the frame that won't be used. Guess I could put a Hellwig 1 1/2" F 450 bar up front to balance it out. ;D

Tom
 

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Re: started custom rear sway bar

at least you are doing it, and it looks like it could work. can't fault a guy for trying. hey, if more is better, too much, could be just right. you don't know till you try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: started custom rear sway bar

Well I'm finished. I don't have any interference problems from hanging springs to compressed springs. The end links move quite well when I bounce on the car. I won't know how well it works until I test it some day. Here's some more pics.


Position end link on frame rail with the springs hanging from the body. Mark with center punch.

Drill all the way through nice and straight with a 1/4" pilot.

The bushings take 12 millimeter bolts.


Make some sleeves for the frame. 3/8" sch. 40 black pipe is perfect for 12 mm bolts. Very snug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: started custom rear sway bar


Now take your unibit and drill holes on each side of the frame rail to accept the sleeves. Weld it up and grind it down.

Now bolt up the end links

This is the bar with the springs hanging. I ended up putting a grade 8 nut w/ 1/4" of thread protruding on the front outer U bolt corner to give me more clearance to the bar. I Now have at least 1/4" of space in worst case scenario. What grade is the Mancini U bolt?

Put the bolt in from the wheel side of the frame. The bolt sticks out 1/16" less than the spring box so this won't hurt the clearance on the 28" x 13.5" tires.
 

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Re: started custom rear sway bar UPDATE; FINISHED

very cool , nice work i will have to lock this in the memory bank will defenitly cure the body roll my car has
 

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Re: started custom rear sway bar UPDATE; FINISHED

Brutus looks mean! Get used to little kids crying when you drive by! lol
 

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Re: started custom rear sway bar UPDATE; FINISHED

nice job! gotta love custom fabbed parts, gives a car so much more personality ;D
 

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Re: started custom rear sway bar UPDATE; FINISHED

Wow, that was fast! Looks good, too.

I recall an A body rally car article many years ago that ran two sway bars up front. Something to think about if you need more bar up front.
 

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Excellent work, now get the rest finished and go out and drive the snot out of it and let us know how it performs.

2 sway bars up front??? I have 1 sway bar on the front of mine (1 1/8" inch diameter) and it would take an M1 Abrahms tank running over one of the front corners to get it to lean, why the hell would you want a complicated mess of 2?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks everyone. I did it for you guys too. BTW, I took emery to the  puke;  FOMOCO mark on the bar.



Tom
 

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Re: started custom rear sway bar

krabysniper said:
2 sway bars up front??? why the hell would you want a complicated mess of 2?
Well, that is one large rear bar... and

fourspeed said:
My hunch is that the bar is too large for the rear. That's JUST a hunch. Typically, the front bar is over 1" in dia, while the rear bar is about 3/4". I'm thinking you might have some oversteer problems.
it could be an option to resolve above mentioned problems, rather than scrapping the whole deal.
 

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I don't know anything about suspensions, but if the bar is narrower, wouldn't the rear end exert more leverage on it, requiring a larger than normal diameter bar ???
 
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