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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was there any pressure when you cut the center trans crossmember out? As in did the rear torsion bar mounts try to twist? I have the floor out of mine and was thinking of doing what you have done here. Although i already have the subframe connectors in, I was going to remove mine and do more of what you have there.
 

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i figured that they would want to twist a bit so i backed off the tensioner bolt until the car was resting on the rubber stoppers.

then after i hacked it out and moved the engine back i reused my exhaust system as a temporary brace from the t-bar socket to the cowl area, i think this picture is there showing this braced up.

then i tightened up the adjuster bolt to about were the hight was good and rolled her out of the shop.
it is not driven like this or moved more than 40 ft but it is supporting the engine and trans.

next saturday i will attempt to do the left side rail,then slowly get this center section all level and square, right now things are pretty flexible so they must be braced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was thinking of eliminating the factory cross member and using 2x3 square tube to remount the rear t-bar sockets and then a much simpler trans mount.
 
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