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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey there.

i am wondering if this is a legitimate way to fab up my roll bar.

i don't have a tube bender and it may be a while before i can get one.

so just wondering if i could do it this way and be safe, i can put gussets in no problem later.

i always see the tube bent on a radius never joined like this and the NHRA safety rule book apparently mentions nothing but just shows this area as having a nice radius to it.

if it is kosher i can rock and roll.

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There is a fair amount of safety in what you are doing but, it would never pass a tech inspection nor would it ceritify. How fast are you going or plan to go? You could buy a universal cage from Jegs or Summit that actually isn't bad. We have installed several of these and they work well.

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We bought this 6 point bar kit from Comp and installed it ourselfs last winter in my boys Dart. We paid about $250. with tax and shipping. It was worth it as it fits nice but of course you do have to cut and fishmouth some pipes. Ron

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks people.

i would have probably bought a ready bent kit but i am going so far off the beaten path that i needed to get it custom bent or make it myself.

anyways i phoned the NHRA tech services representative and talked to Pat Cvengros, he said as long as the welds are free of porosity ect. i am good to go using this technique.

PlymanNos, hey there thanks for the reply.
my goal is a weight of 2500-2800lbs total and 350-400 hp at the wheels and a weight distribution close to 50/50 for the odd corner :).

bOb shingler ,he-he that bender may not work.
i am going to get the JD2 #3 unit but with a set of 1.625" dies and taxes it works out to just a bit over 900 Can dollars,i could probably do better through online or something but i like to do business in person and local.
 
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Depending on where you are in Canada, you may be able to use Art Morisson in the Seattle area. I ordered my cage from them when I was in Alaska and it worked out really well. If you were to do a simple bar like a 6 or 8 point it would be really cheap. I think you'll find that by using sharp 90* bends you'll lose a lot of space, like headroom on the main hoop. The radiused bends allow it to go up into the roofline better. Just some thoughts - hope you get what you want.
 
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signet said:
hey there.

i am wondering if this is a legitimate way to fab up my roll bar.

i don't have a tube bender and it may be a while before i can get one.

so just wondering if i could do it this way and be safe, i can put gussets in no problem later.

i always see the tube bent on a radius never joined like this and the NHRA safety rule book apparently mentions nothing but just shows this area as having a nice radius to it.

if it is kosher i can rock and roll.
  On your car(if your car is 11 seconds for slower) I think he will buy it but don't grind on the welds, I got a $90 pipe bender it works well. The problems start at 7.50 1/8 mile,they look at it alittle closer. Your welds if they are like this one is good,don't let it come downhill,he won't buy it if it has grind mark on it.  Most of those guys look at more than the welds if they see thats the money is not there for the project they will let you race but they won't let you use just anything,     >:D So stay out of the wind when you are welding.              MAX43
 
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Ciscodog said:
Depending on where you are in Canada, you may be able to use Art Morisson in the Seattle area.  I ordered my cage from them when I was in Alaska and it worked out really well.  If you were to do a simple bar like a 6 or 8 point it would be really cheap.  I think you'll find that by using sharp 90* bends you'll lose a lot of space, like headroom on the main hoop.  The radiused bends allow it to go up into the roofline better.  Just some thoughts - hope you get what you want.
i agree, a 90 degree turn will either be below your head or to far inside from the rocker to work.
 

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  On your car(if your car is 11 seconds for slower) I think he will buy it but don't grind on the welds, I got a $90 pipe bender it works well. The problems start at 7.50 1/8 mile,they look at it alittle closer. Your welds if they are like this one is good,don't let it come downhill,he won't buy it if it has grind mark on it.  Most of those guys look at more than the welds if they see thats the money is not there for the project they will let you race but they won't let you use just anything,     >:D So stay out of the wind when you are welding.              MAX43
Max, I have a question about Signet's miter joint. The rules say no grinding. But, if I was lazy I could lay down a wedding ring cover on that miter joint with a piss poor root pass. Wouldn't tech be concerned about a poor root on a miter joint like this and no way of telling other than shooting it? IMO, this is why a bend would be better but I am not a racer.

I hope to start my S and W 8 pt. in September.

Tom
 
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b569rr said:
  On your car(if your car is 11 seconds for slower) I think he will buy it but don't grind on the welds, I got a $90 pipe bender it works well. The problems start at 7.50 1/8 mile,they look at it alittle closer. Your welds if they are like this one is good,don't let it come downhill,he won't buy it if it has grind mark on it.  Most of those guys look at more than the welds if they see thats the money is not there for the project they will let you race but they won't let you use just anything,     >:D So stay out of the wind when you are welding.              MAX43
Max, I have a question about Signet's miter joint. The rules say no grinding. But, if I was lazy I could lay down a wedding ring cover on that miter joint with a piss poor root pass. Wouldn't tech be concerned about a poor root on a miter joint like this and no way of telling other than shooting it? IMO, this is why a bend would be better but I am not a racer.

I hope to start my S and W 8 pt. in September.

Tom
What I am saying is they will let him race,if he don't have the money to do it right the car is not going to be that fast,it takes money to get it fast,and those guys know that and over look some things and let him race. You know theres some that will give him hell about it than turn arould and let him race ,than there are some that will have hell with a racer over a bad seatbelt than if hes next it won't pass (  ::) I know that you know all about that) its called a asshole. I think under 10.50ET gets a stamp(they will UT it) but on Signet's car they won't check the root, in fact all he needs is 6 point bars but check the rules on where the bars need to be that the important stuff. If the bars are in the right place he won't have a problem with the weld. I bet a bars will bend before that weld brakes.   {O Get that stamp we need you.            MAX43       PS. Tom remember you can be a good welding inspector without being a asshole,like that asshole that told you:" you'll be back and turned his back on you"after 12 years.  >:D You mite be back but hes not going to like it!!! lol lol lol
 
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Heres some rules :D 11.00-13.49 with a convertible needs a 6 point rollbar. :D 10.00-11.49 all cars require a minimum 6 point rollbar :D convertible need full cage at 10.99 and quicker, :D all cars need full cage at 9.99 and quicker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
b569rr
thanks for looking.

you figure i would have to take another pass over this type of joint?

i understand that it would be much easier and consistant to use a bend but having no bender at the moment i figured i would ask.

i also want to keep my options open in the power department so i don't want to build it twice either.

anyways i have 4 of these i have to make including a gusset in each using the same tubing size.

this will keep me buzy for a few weekends and give me some practice cutting these to fit ect.

welding tubing is new to me and it looks like it has it's moments.


bentwheel43, hey there.

that bender you are using,can you show a 90 degree or similiar bend so i can see it.

the price just seems too good... and others have said it collapses the tube, i have no first hand knowledge about these pipe benders used on tubing.

i had the front braces done at an exhaust shop and at like 20 degrees it started to collapse just like an exhauxt pipe.

thanks
 

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signet said:
b569rr
thanks for looking.

you figure i would have to take another pass over this type of joint?
I have no experience with roll bars/cages. I have been welding pipe for about 17 years now. In regards to my reference to root pass, it is a term used on a buttweld joint when looking for 100% penetration, fusion, lack of porosity etc...typically on the inside of the pipe. If you bend test a pipe (coupons) without a good root (many other things come into play also), the carbon steel pipe will break at the weld everytime.

I would listen to Max and others on this. Looks like you've been real busy in the gallery.

Tom
 
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