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so, my '73 Duster with the half vinyl roof. looked great when I got the car, but due to (life BS and stuff), ended up a semi-abandoned project. roof along the trailing edge of the vinyl went bad and rotted through. most likely underneath the vinyl as well.

roof now either needs a lot of cut and weld work or outright replacing.

so, all you sheet metal guys. recommendations? tips on repair roof metalwork? do I section out the rust or re-roof it? (which would undoubtedly mean farming it out)

thoughts and opinions welcome.

CJ
 

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so, my '73 Duster with the half vinyl roof. looked great when I got the car, but due to (life BS and stuff), ended up a semi-abandoned project. roof along the trailing edge of the vinyl went bad and rotted through. most likely underneath the vinyl as well.

roof now either needs a lot of cut and weld work or outright replacing.

so, all you sheet metal guys. recommendations? tips on repair roof metalwork? do I section out the rust or re-roof it? (which would undoubtedly mean farming it out)

thoughts and opinions welcome.

CJ
How big are the rust holes? Can you grind out the rust and apply a rust converter? Once the rust is converted to iron oxide you can paint it and start on the repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How big are the rust holes? Can you grind out the rust and apply a rust converter? Once the rust is converted to iron oxide you can paint it and start on the repairs.
its pretty much the entire line across the back edge of where the vinyl roof portion ends, from driver drip rail to the passenger side. Im still in the process of trying to peel back the vinyl roof to see how bad it is.

do you have a recommended rust converter you use?
 

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its pretty much the entire line across the back edge of where the vinyl roof portion ends, from driver drip rail to the passenger side. Im still in the process of trying to peel back the vinyl roof to see how bad it is.

do you have a recommended rust converter you use?
I just did a rust repair under my windshield. I pulled the windshield to replace it, and had some rust holes at the bottom frame on both sides. So I cleaned up the frame with a high speed dremel tool with wire brushes. Then to convert the rust I brushed on some Rust-oleum Rust Reformer that I picked up at Menards. It converted the rust and primered it all at once. Once the Rust Reformer dried I painted it with regular Rust-Oleum paint. To close up the rust holes I wanted it to be a simple fix. So I bought some JB Weld quick drying epoxy. I put some masking tape underneath the holes as a backing, then filled the holes with the JB Weld. This worded out great. The JB Weld is as strong as steel and easy to work with. My windshield job came out perfect.
 

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I helped with a roof skin on a '74 Challenger. BEST repair is the whole thing, but not always necessary. I would cut it out and replace, but that I would have to farm out...
 

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JB weld.

man, that is soo tempting.

:unsure:
Well if anything, it's a good base to have underneath either body filler or fiberglass. It's pretty much resistant to anything including water, gasoline , the cold, the heat. JB Weld has saved my butt quite a few times already. I love this stuff.
 
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18 gauge sheet metal roughly shaped with hammers and punches upon a block of soft wood, finish formed as it was mig welded in place...Actually as strong as steel:)
55552
 
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