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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys got my Dart engine bay, doors fenders and trunk soda blasted yesterday, came out really good, the guy who did it told me that I do not have to worry about the bare metal rusting, Because the paint was not like it was sanded off, is this true, Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am getting thr whole car epoxy primed within a few weeks, do to the body still needing final metal prep, but thats what the guy told me, he siad he has adoor that he blasted last year and still has not started to rust, and it is out side, I am just going on what he told me.
 

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Soda Blasting seems to be the way to go but just remember there is more elements to the equation than just moisture.For example...What's goinig to happen if someone comes up and leans on it with thier hand.More than likely the oils from your skin will penetrate into the metal.Body oils rust metal in heart beat.I have not tested this personally but just keep an eye out for other things.If you have kids you never know what thier going to be sling'n around.I would atleast cover the items up just to be safe.If you can throw some epoxy primer on them it would be even better.Absoloute protection.

carl
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey mopar stu, what do you think this is a hockey game or something, I am not looking for bragging rights, Like I stated earlier I am just posting what the guy told me. but thanks for you input. Darren
 

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Make sure you nutralize the metal after you soda blast !! The major paint companies will not warranty their paint if it is used over soda blasting! It does a great job and it will stay rust free for a time it depends on your humidity in the area you live mine was bare for quite awhile before I started to notice small spots of rust.But this is also what keeps the paint from sticking the way it suppose to.You need to wash the panels with soap and water (I was told to use Dawn and it worked good for me )Then you must scrub it with a red scotch brite all over then rinse with fresh clean water.I did this process three times to my whole car .If the paint sticks I'll never know if I really had to but I wasn't taking any chances on $800 worth of paint and hours of time being all for not and having to have it done again.But the paint companies are not gauranteeing their paint if it is used over soda blasting ....there is a reason for that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I wounder if I just went over the car with a da sander? I don't really want to get the car wet,
 

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BIG DOG said:
Make sure you nutralize the metal after you soda blast !! The major paint companies will not warranty their paint if it is used over soda blasting! It does a great job and it will stay rust free for a time it depends on your humidity in the area you live mine was bare for quite awhile before I started to notice small spots of rust.But this is also what keeps the paint from sticking the way it suppose to.You need to wash the panels with soap and water (I was told to use Dawn and it worked good for me )Then you must scrub it with a red scotch brite all over then rinse with fresh clean water.I did this process three times to my whole car .If the paint sticks I'll never know if I really had to but I wasn't taking any chances on $800 worth of paint and hours of time being all for not and having to have it done again.But the paint companies are not gauranteeing their paint if it is used over soda blasting ....there is a reason for that!
Paint companies don't even mention soda blasting in their warranties and really don't care how you got the paint off your car.They mostly require that a trained tech spray and proper procedures in the product sheets are followed. You are on your own painting your own car as far as warranties are concerned.
 

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I posted this on the other thread. Advice from a friend in Fl.

The term "Acid" dipping is not in anyway whatsoever conducted on resto type vehicles. Factually, Acid was used to "reduce a drag vehicles weight" and this stupid term of saying "ACID" is miss-used when speaking of vehicle restorations that are conducted today.

NO ACID is used in vehicle submersion, as acid actually eats both good solid steel material and the rust, leaving the vehicles metal skin pitted and actually it will rust (surface flash) quicker when acid is used.

Vehicle Dipping is conducted to remove ONLY the existing rust [I.E. IRON OXCIDE] and that is normally conducted via electrolyses. With only the areas of metal that has iron oxide (rust on it's steel base) being removed and the magic chemical used,,,,, (get ready) ,,, is,,,"BICARBONATE SODA" dissolved in water.!

Hey, isn't that something, it's the very same material used in soda blasting but only dissolved in water and an electrical current in correct values is being used ! (However soda when used in a blasting process won't remove any rust, only stronger abrasives like silica-sand that can easily warp most surface vehicles metal, due to the heat it generates when it contacts the metal surface and/or aluminum oxide which also will warp surface metal.

Oh by the way, all methods of abrasive "blasting" will not in anyway whatsoever remove all of the rust, as there are still minor areas of rust remaining and embedded in the pores of the steel only to return later unless something like a real rust preventative material such as POR-15 base paint sealer is first used prior to finish painting the vehicle's previously rusted areas in question. Areas of rust that cannot be reached I.E. box frames, metal seams and so forth will still have the opportunity to rust as they did day one from the vehicles manufacturer passably line.

Both processes (either soda blasting or vehicle-dipping ) must be "pressured washed" and "dried" before you use self etching base primer. By the way, "self-etching-primer" is the first time any sort of acid-type material is use in a proper vehicle resto. Humm?

To clear up some paint warrantee misconceptions. All vehicle paint mfgs will in fact warranty the application (adhesion) of paint on vehicles as long as the vehicle that was either soda-blasted or dipped has been properly "neutralized" (cleaned/prepped as mention above) The real and serious issue of paint warranty is the fact that (as a private garage Do It Yourselfer guy) unless you have a good relationship with the paint distributor in your area, your wonderful resto will never, ever be warranted, simply because you are not a daily licensed vehicle paint & body profession / business. Nearly all paint materials made today has a disclaimer on the side of the paint-can stating "For Professional Use Only" or some other similar disclaimer!

Factually & no argument needed, vehicle dipping for all areas of seen and unseen iron oxide (rust) removal is the best way to go. Plus, then going the step of having the vehicle primer dipped (fully submersed) using negative (reverse electron ground process) grounding if your real intent is to have a finished product (all costs barred) desire to be around for many, many generations.
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MVRCorp said:
The term "Acid" dipping is not in anyway whatsoever conducted on resto type vehicles. Factually, Acid was used to "reduce a drag vehicles weight" and this stupid term of saying "ACID" is miss-used when speaking of vehicle restorations that are conducted today.

NO ACID is used in vehicle submersion, as acid actually eats both good solid steel material and the rust, leaving the vehicles metal skin pitted and actually it will rust (surface flash) quicker when acid is used.

Vehicle Dipping is conducted to remove ONLY the existing rust [I.E. IRON OXCIDE] and that is normally conducted via electrolyses. With only the areas of metal that has iron oxide (rust on it's steel base) being removed and the magic chemical used,,,,,  (get ready) ,,, is,,,"BICARBONATE SODA" dissolved in water.! 

Hey, isn't that something, it's the very same material used in soda blasting but only dissolved in water and an electrical current in correct values is being used ! (However soda when used in a blasting process won't remove any rust, only stronger abrasives like silica-sand that can easily warp most surface vehicles metal, due to the heat it generates when it contacts the metal surface and/or aluminum oxide which also will warp surface metal.

Oh by the way, all methods of  abrasive "blasting" will not in anyway whatsoever remove all of the rust, as there are still minor areas of rust remaining and embedded in the pores of the steel only to return later unless something like a real rust preventative material such as POR-15 base paint sealer is first used prior to finish painting the vehicle's previously rusted areas in question. Areas of rust that cannot be reached I.E. box frames, metal seams and so forth will still have the opportunity to rust as they did day one from the vehicles manufacturer passably line.

Both processes (either soda blasting or vehicle-dipping ) must be "pressured washed" and "dried" before you use self etching base primer. By the way, "self-etching-primer" is the first time any sort of acid-type material is use in a proper vehicle resto. Humm?

To clear up some paint warrantee misconceptions. All vehicle paint mfgs will in fact warranty the application (adhesion) of paint on vehicles as long as the vehicle that was either soda-blasted or dipped has been properly "neutralized" (cleaned/prepped as mention above) The real and serious issue of paint warranty is the fact that (as a private garage Do It Yourselfer guy) unless you have a good relationship with the paint distributor in your area, your wonderful resto will never, ever be warranted, simply because you are not a daily licensed vehicle paint & body profession / business. Nearly all paint materials made today has a disclaimer on the side of the paint-can stating  "For Professional Use Only" or some other similar disclaimer!

Factually & no argument needed, vehicle dipping for all areas of seen and unseen iron oxide (rust) removal is the best way to go.  Plus, then going the step of having the vehicle primer dipped (fully submersed) using negative (reverse electron ground process)  grounding if your real intent is to have a finished product (all costs barred) desire to be around for many, many generations.
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terrific post, very informative. Thanks a lot MVR :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I just got my dart epoxied this past weekend, the doors fenders trunk and my engine bay was soda blasted, before the guy epoxied it, all as we did was ruff it up with 80 grit and clean it with thinner hope every thing will be alright.
 

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I heard all you need to do is pressure wash with hot water and blow dry, and you're ready for primer. True?

Tim

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Has anyone here sprayed epoxy rate over freshly soda blasted metal? and if so what kind of luck have you had with paint flaking or blistering? thanks
 
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