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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
on the 73 Swinger...the right side trans crossmember torsion bar spool spun. it was repaired once....but is not solid. anyone install a auto rust tech "cap"....how did it go? or should I look for a complete trans crossmember? seems the cap would be a hell of a lot easier. commnets
 

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after taking mine apart i can see that using a patch/repair kit would be difficult too verses a complete crossmember change.

difficult to do it right.

the upper and side part of the socket cannot be welded properly with a MIG because the tip is too big to get in the tight spots a gas or stick weld method might work better.

trying to get the old surfaces clean enough to weld will also be difficult,sand blasting may be the only way to remove that oil/tar stuff.

my crossmemeber looked "good" on the outside but inside it was fried and failure was next.

the car must be stripped of interior and suspension a few windows must be made in the floor and then you can start to replace the crossmember,with that elusive "good" crossmember.

here is a pic of what is going on under the sheet metal.

http://www.bigblockdart.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=1231&cat=500&ppuser=1817

do you have the tools,time and space or are you relying on someone to do it for you?
 

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I looked through your gallery signet, all I can say is WOW. That is one heck of a setup your working on there.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
L side is real solid.....the R side took on water is was rotted out. It was repaired once....but the dummy didn't clock the T bar socket, so the right height is too low and not adjustable enough to get a level ride. Once side repair is OK for this one. I can MIG /TIG /Stick so I should be able to get a full weld. On the cap. the old socket is removed and welded into the replacement "cap". I'm just going to welld it in, before welding the cap into position. I see no reason to weld the socket after the cap is installed. The tough part is going to be cutting out the socket. My Plasma cutter isn't working as of yet..
 

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Call Bill, tell him your desperate and broke, order and Alterkation. (DISCLAIMER....this member, in no way, is saying Bill discounts his units to anyone that's desperate or broke, Lord knows if he did he would be out of business by now. There are plenty of us out there. But he is taking a "vacation" to SEMA. If your really lucky he might be in a good mood when he gets back and knock $100.00 off............... Ha Ha)
Jim lol lol lol lol

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SEMA!! WOW....I remember when it was the OLD website...I think I first started talking to Bill back in Jan of 97 or 98..cant remember. He was building his car in his drive way! thats pretty damn cool.......
 

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bbscamp
you may be able to fix it without cutting the socket out.

try removing the t-bar.
back the adjuster bolt out almost all the way.

undo the shock absorber so the suspension drops as much as possible and see if you can get the t-bar to go in on the next 60 degree flat of the socket.
dont forget to rotate the adjuster so it is against the control arm.

i almost did the same thing on my bar sockets but i remembered some of the pics i had showed the clocking of the hex.BTW the clocking is a hex point to the ground.
also the worst case is the clocking will be out 30 degrees or the hex will have a flat to the ground instead of a point.

i bet you could do it without cutting.

Lars
he,he i got my gas pedal working again.
 

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abqdart said:
SEMA!! WOW....I remember when it was the OLD website...I think I first started talking to Bill back in Jan of 97 or 98..cant remember. He was building his car in his drive way! thats pretty damn cool.......
Yeah same here, I started reading BBD in 98 when I got my 70. I remember seeing the mockup of the Alter-K thinking "man that is going to be sweet when it is done".
 

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I just installed a Safe-T Cap on my 1967 Dart passenger side this weekend. My torsion bar socket had not spun, but it was really rusted bad and I could push a screwdriver into the metal all around the socket. I don't know what was holding it!

I cut a 3 X 10 window in the floor above the frame and vacuumed out all the rust. There was a huge amount of it. I got out as much as I could, then soaked the frame with Phospho to stop further rusting. Then I cleaned up the outside with a wirebrush, grinder and a 3M pad on a die grinder. I had to cut and tweak the cap to fit properly. I cut out the metal above the socket holes so I could slide the cap over my exisiting socket. I then tack welded it in place until I can get a real welder out to weld all around the cap and halfway around the socket on both sides. I did not see any way to weld above the socket anyway, so I did not cut it out. You may need to in order to get it indexed properly. I then welded in a patch in the floor.

Signet, your pics were helpful to me on this job. Thanks for the post.
 
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