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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went to start the Dart up but it wouldn't combust. Had spark & fuel. My dad hooked a separate battery and a battery charger up to the battery in the car. I went to turn it over some more but instead I heard 2 pops and had nothing. My friend checked the volts and found there were 12 at the battery but 2-4 at the starter. We think that the problems could be related and the mixture wasn't combusting because the coil wasn't getting enough voltage. It sucks since now we can't even turn the engine over. Any ideas? Sorry if my explanation is a bit confusing, I don't really know what the hell I'm talking about, just trying to relay what I've been told. Thanks BIG TIME in advance!
 

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Ha ha, we will get it. Something behind the dash is drawing it down or got burned up. If we pull the bulkhead connector off firewall I get battery voltage there and to the starter, just gotta figure out whats shorting or drawing down the voltage after that. Someone needs to change this smiley to throw tools from under car, slide out, and bang his head on bumper repeatedly!!! o----o<>
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
check the battery cables make sure they're tight & corrosion free. try jumping the starter relay to make sure it's not the problem as well. or try rapping the starter with a hammer to make sure the starter isn't hitting a bad spot. more info would be helpful.
 

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redeye dave said:
check the battery cables make sure they're tight & corrosion free. try jumping the starter relay to make sure it's not the problem as well. or try rapping the starter with a hammer to make sure the starter isn't hitting a bad spot. more info would be helpful.
Battery cables and connections are good, I'm gonna see if I have a starter relay in my tool box, starter is brand new, theres something that failed when she heard those pops (I never heard them, no idea what they were) as the car was cranking just fine before that. I'm gonna pop that bulkhead connector off and get a remote starter switch across starter terminals just to make sure thats working and hopefully have less chefs in the kitchen so I can control my "cooking". I will be back for another campout!!!!!!!!! %)
 

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If the voltage at the battery was 12 volts but, only 2-4 at the starter, the problem must be cables or the starter solenoid.
Ask you friend to measure the voltage accross the starter solenoid while you are cranking. The voltage accross the solenoid
while cranking should be less than .5 (1/2) volt, about 12-14 the rest of the time.

Good Luck,

Bruce
 

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HemiDemon said:
If the voltage at the battery was 12 volts but, only 2-4 at the starter, the problem must be cables or the starter solenoid.
Ask you friend to measure the voltage accross the starter solenoid while you are cranking. The voltage accross the solenoid
while cranking should be less than .5 (1/2) volt, about 12-14 the rest of the time.

Good Luck,

Bruce
With the key off just taking the bulkhead connector off firewall will bring voltage at starter back up to battery voltage. Same if I disconnect ignition switch. I'll figure it out htis weekend and report back. I got my Fluke meter warmed up. -o
 

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Once you get it back together make sure the plugs are dry and not soaked so you get a good spark.
 

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Figured I'd update this thread and let everyone know what the problem was! Guess I was just a little burned out and frustrated and thinking too far into it last last Sunday. Found the problem first thing Saturday/yesterday morning with my Fluke meter. The ground wire from battery to chassis had a horrible connection where I had bolted it to floor. o[ o[ o[ Cleaned floor top and bottom, botled it back down, and we were up and cranking!!! Finally got the right plugs for these odd ball motorhome heads, had to advance the timing farther then I thought to get it to light off, and it liked a wet intake to fire off, but it finally came to life. -0*( Thanks for the input guys. I knew it would be something simple, I was just having a brrrrrt If I can just talk her into converting it to EFI then I'd be more in my zone!!
 
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