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FourSixSeven
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I am about to embark on the floor repair for my 66 Dart convertible. It is in need of compete passenger compartment floorpans. the rockers and the trans tunnel are there, but thats about it. I have the repro early A floor pans for the front from autobodyspecialt, but the rears are in a continual state being "about 2-3 months out". I've been waiting 12-18 months for them, and I think I'm going to proceed and fab my own rear pans.
Being a convertible, I thought it'd be a good idea to tie the subframes together. It'll hopefully provide the extra strength that my non-OEM rear floors replacements might not provide as the originals did. Should I use 2x2" or 2x3" steel tubing? I figure I'll follow convention and tie the connectors in directly to the rear subframes and then forward to the crossmember near the t-bar receivers.
I'm also comtemplating adding connectors inboard just on the sides of the trans tunnel, maybe 2x2" or 1x2" tied to the trans crossmember and back to rear seat riser of the floorpans.
what gauge steel should I use for the fabbed rear pans? I have a bead roller to add strengthening beads...
thoughts?
Being a convertible, I thought it'd be a good idea to tie the subframes together. It'll hopefully provide the extra strength that my non-OEM rear floors replacements might not provide as the originals did. Should I use 2x2" or 2x3" steel tubing? I figure I'll follow convention and tie the connectors in directly to the rear subframes and then forward to the crossmember near the t-bar receivers.
I'm also comtemplating adding connectors inboard just on the sides of the trans tunnel, maybe 2x2" or 1x2" tied to the trans crossmember and back to rear seat riser of the floorpans.
what gauge steel should I use for the fabbed rear pans? I have a bead roller to add strengthening beads...
thoughts?