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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
looking to see how some of you guys have dealt with medium - heavy surface rust on exterior skins.......i aim for perfection on all my finishes, but going over pitted metal is always a concern. ive had pretty good luck; but over time, these seem to be the first areas to haunt......im gonna try a new approach. "Rust Bullet" seems to be the new miracle product on the market. i have a straight but pitted hood. since rust bullet is designed to go over both rust and bare metal; im gonna clean the hood as best i can. then 2 coats of rust bullet as per the directions. then i want to sand it, epoxy prime, and go from there. anyone else tried this? one more thing, does soda blasting get to the bottom of the pits?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
http://www.rust-bullet.com/ i used it and i like it, it can be topcoated... just wondering if anyone has used it as a first undercoat. id only put it over pitted areas.
 

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try this stuff,   http://www.ultraoneusa.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=10&cat=Safest+Rust+Remover    does'nt work fast, but it works as good as they say it does. you'll go through a lot of it because you cant use it too long, it loses its "oomf". Never been a fan of "rust converters". Goes against everything I've been taught. Rust is cancer for cars, you can chase it around and it'll come back somewhere else, but you'll never really get rid of it. I'd rather remove it and deal with clean metal and go from there. Just my 2 Dollars worth, (inflation and all).....
 

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Soda Blasting will not remove the rust!! I would get some stuff called navel jelly also called rust remover by permtex I think?
You put it on with a paint brush do a small area 1 foot by1 foot I let it sit for a few minutes then use steel wool to scrub it .When you are done rinse it with water then dry will stay like brand new metal for quite awhile .Then just hit it with the DA 80 grit and epoxy when ready.Will also cure any rust that is left behind.
I will see if I can find a link for you.

Here hope this works this is a great site.http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/sec...val-revealed-55679.html?highlight=navel+jelly
 

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i use picklex 20. probably the same crap. some green acid stuff. supposed to be good for weld thru coating too.
 

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I used rust bullet on the interior floors and trunk area after cleaning it up really well. Went on beautifully and seems to do what it says :)
 

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I've been using a product called Zero Rust. It's only about $55 a gallon. I've heard a lot of bad things about how it takes forever to dry. But I just thinned it 3:1 with hardware store acetone and sprayed 3 thin coats about 10 minutes apart. It dried to the touch in around 15 minutes even in 50 degree temps. The stuff is awesome and about half the price of other products.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i tried the naval jelly and it kicked complete ass -0*( someone once told me that stuff didnt work Bla^*+ , and it stuck in my mind......silly me **(*)
 

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I've used a combination of cut and replace, soda blasting (which does get rust out of pits), Picklex 20 (which is a fine rust converter/protector), Evapo-Rust, Navel Jelly, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, and Zero Rust. I would choose Zero Rust and Encapsulator over Por-15 any day. Neither contains Iso's and can be sprayed easily and without fear of killing yourself. Of course, total eradication and/or removal of rust is ideal and should be your goal and first priority but that isn't always practical or even possible. Water and oxygen promote oxidation. If you can't remove the rust completely then starving it from moisture and air is the next best thing and that's what these products help do.

Picklex 20 is great if you want to leave metal bare but unexposed from the elements for awhile - preventing flash rust. It also works good for converting any traces of rust that may remain after you think you've removed it. Though the active ingredient is the same as the green hardware store stuff there are differences in the formula that make it superior. Evapo-Rust and Navel Jelly are amazing all on their own. Encapsulator and Zero-Rust are best for areas not intended for top coating - frames, undercarriage, insides of doors, rockers, etc. For exterior panels I'd sand the surface rust and, if possible, media blast to clean out pits. A rust remover or converter (for trace) followed by a coat of epoxy will then give you a good base to build upon. Cancer though? It's gotta go.

My two bits...
 
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