[signet]

i am going to be replacing the factory socket and bracket ect.

just wondering if there is something out there that is quick and easy besides salvaging some old units.

a couple of unwelded originals would be ideal.

is there such a thing?

thanks.

[attachment deleted by admin]

 

[GTS225]

I do believe "Auto Rust Technicians" sells a repair section for just what you need.

Roger

 

[Cudadust]

Here is one source: Auto Rust Technicians, www.safetcap.com 800-407-7024

 

[Jim_Lusk]

Those are quite thick, make sure they really need to be replaced.

 

[strange246]

Those are quite thick, make sure they really need to be replaced.

[]{} There's nothing wrong with those pictured from what I can see,  those sockets are 3/8" thick, if your worried about the coming loose either get the auto rust caps or do what I did and reinforce one side with a steel plate...

Ryan

In this pic you can see what I mean...

 

[sr71mopar]

now is your chance to re-index them if you want.

 

[signet]

thanks for the advice links and pics.

i was hoping for something new to use.

i am changing things around a bit and plan on using a mid plate as the t- bar anchor.

i did manage to find something that is close enough made by G and G manufacturing they call it a shaft coupling it is made of mild steel 4.5 inches long and 2.125 inches in diameter and cost 20 bucks each on a minimum order of 3.



this is what i am up to so far,the engine/trans area will be somewere very close to were it is now probably back a few more inches so my oil filter will clear the center- link.
there is a few temporary braces there made of my old exhaust system.
right under those is were the anchors are and the midplate is going to include them one way or another and the plate will rest on some 2X4 tubing connected front and rear.

going to try and get the front to rear tubing done this week-end if it shows up.

again thanks for the help.

[attachment deleted by admin]

 

[Jim_Lusk]

I hope you're not going to try to use a set screw on a torsion bar. The length changes slightly as it twists and untwists. Also, it appears that you are planning just one set screw to keep it from rotating in the new socket. You have virtually the entire weight of the front end on the one spot. I don't think it will hold up.

 

[signet]

i will use the same snap clip idea to keep the bar from walking out.

i will use wasted cut-off wheels mounted in the drill press to do the cut inside the hex.

when i looked at my originals they were not and have not walked up against the snap ring,still lots of grime in between the two,maybe they are binding or something.

it probably will be more work to cut the groove for the dust/grease boot though,oh ya that reminds me i have to check the OD of the originals.


thanks again and take care