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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had asked a question about an airbag setup a little bit ago, but I got to reading the past posts and was wondering more about a pro-touring type suspension. I saw some people run ladders bars, but these do not let the rear of the car tilt very well.

Would running a Triangulated 4-link with Coil overs, maybe the same type that comes with the AlterK, work very well with on A-bodies?

If this would work, and allow me to lower the car about 1" in the rear and 2" in the front to give it a lower center of gravity, run some nice swaybars, and let me turn real nice, I think I might go with that way instead of bags.

Really I just need to know if a Triangulated 4-link would work.

Thanks for all the help,
Mike
 
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I do believe it would work fine. Another item that might sway your opinions - you can't run air bags on the front of a mopar - there's no room to fit them - if the airbag diameter was 2.5" smaller, they'd work nice.

..and yes, stay away from ladder bars on a handling car. I'm quite fond of the triangulated four link setup, so I'd say that would be a great way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thankyou very much, I think I will go with a tri-4 with coil overs, what spring rate do you recomend, I think on RMS you had mentioned that 400 was good on the front, and 450 was a little stiffer. Do you anyone who makes nice 4-link bars? I was thinking of a company called suicidedoors.com, they make 4 link bars to any size and shape you need. I am not sure if I should go with a little longer bars or shorter ones. Do you suggest anything else or a specific type of sway bars. I have a 1971 Plymouth Valiant 4-door(I like the look) that I plan to run a fuel injected 440 about 550 HP. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated,
Mike
PS do I have to run a panhard bar with a tri-4, i think i dont but im not sure, thanks
 
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Depends on the weight, but in general, rear springs are usually in the 110-140lb range.

Same with the fronts - depends on the weight 400's work nice on most a-bodies with the existing alterk, but there are guys out there running much stiffer springs, only because they have heavier cars. If you're planning on an Alterk down the road, we'll work all that out when the time comes.

I don't have much info on 4-bars right now. I will be doing some exhaustive research on the topic, probably over the summer. I'd look through the normal race car places, and the street rod shops - there are bound to be a few styles that should work nice. Just be careful about selecting street rod stuff - it's usually pretty junky because they're made for 1800lb cars - some of that stuff in a musclecar would break if you look at it crooked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thankyou very much, I really appreciate it, I might talk to a few of the guys driving bagged trucks around here with huge motors to see if they will let me look at thier 4-link suspension, I think coils in place of bags should be the only difference.

Yes I am looking at the AlterK in the future. I just got a job paying $800 a month after taxes. and I have a few cars to sell, I am thinking of painting the car with the money I get from the other cars and fixing my daily driver, but I will defenently be trying to get the AlterK to swap in a 440. People wont be expecting a little 4-door to have that much under the hood. 0/

thanks for all the help, your great,
Mike
 

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A tri-4 doesn't need a panhard or a wishbone locator due to the splay on the upper bars. These can make a so-so blow-touring car rear suspension. Progressive Automotive has a few kits that can be easily adapted to any older stock type of Mopig chassis to make some kind of pseudo handling package. Without the panhard or the wishbone you have more room for dual stainless fartcans out the back to go with the mudslinger dubs too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I dont plan on driving it on a track,(road race track) I am going to drag it a few times, but I plan on Driving it across the country on long drives, I just wanted a good performing suspension that would allow me to turn. I dont think 18's are that bad of a run since 17's are the most popular aftermarket rim, I think 18's would look very nice on a old muscle car.

If a wishbone suspension would be better, I know a very good company that will make custom kits to whatever you have and maybe I will just talk to them about thier wishbone kits.

why run a fartcan exhuast when you can just leave the pipes open??? I would love to go grab 2 of those cans and clamp then on the a big block's exhuast and see if I could blow out the inside lol.
Mike
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something like this?

[attachment deleted by admin]
 
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I had a triangulated 4 link on my old ranger with a 302 in front of it and never had any problems. It handled well for a truck. I had air bags on it but coilovers would work just as good.
 

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lowmpr,

I have been trying to figure out how to get a good handling rear suspension without chopping up floorboards and that will still "hook up"

I have been researching this on and off for a few months now.  I looked at the art-morrison stuff for the tri four-bar, hotrods to hell for the truck arm, and one place for IRS.  Even considered grafting a C4 IRS in there. 

I have kind of gone full circle in my research, because I am back to wanting to use a leafspring rear suspension for awhile.  But I would like to add a watts link

Two companies are on the verge of making bolt on watts linkages for mopars, Fays2 http://fays2.net/ and evolution motorsports. 

Also, from extensive reading on corner carvers, if you use the watts link, and replace your leaf spring shackles with sliders, and add a torque arm your stock suspension can be tuned to probably out hook and handle an IRS.


Recently I found on the corner carvers forum a discussion about a complete modular package for the rear suspension by evolution motosport

http://forums.corner-carvers.com/showthread.php?t=26035

his prototypes look very impressive.  Unfortunately it looks like while he has sort of commited to doing mopar--it is last on his list. 

When the EvM rear suspension is done it is supposed to have the watts linkage, a 3 or 4 link, and sway bar--all modular so you can pick only what you want.  I may opt to use the watts with the sliders I mentioned before.  still researching tourque arms to be used in that scenario.
 
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