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this is my first attempt at a big block a body, so i thought i would consult the expers. I'm putting a 493/727 in a 68 dart with schumacher engine mounts (original /6). put the engine/trans in friday without much hassle. yesterday i poked around a bit putting in the 2" TTI headers. I had the transmission cross member bolted up and was using the hoist to raise the passenger side of the engine, but there was not enough space to get the header though the top. I suspect i need to undo the transmission mount to allow the engine to lift alittle bit more. anything else? from the top or the bottom? does the steering bar that passes under the oil pan need to come off?

i'm sure many on this board have done this - if someone could share their recipe that would be much appreciated.
 

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the ones i've seen install from the bottom, its a real pain if you dont have a lift. I'm not sure about having to remove the center link or not, maybe someone else will chime in.
 

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solidlifter,

If they are 2" TTI's then it is exactly as Ciscodog says...pull motor, lay the headers in there as close to position and... as much out of the way as possible and tie them in place ( I used zip strps) then as you lower motor in, work the headers into place...also I did not have spark plugs installed and I used header bolts NO studs.
hope this helps.


68Valiant
 

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I put my motor (440RB), tranny and headers in my 69 from the top in 1 piece. I used an engine tilter and have a 10 foot ceiling in my garage. You can't have any pulleys on the balancer and you need the torsion bars out. It just fits. I thought it was the best way, you can get the starter in and wired. I used studs and copper gaskets on the headers. If it has to come out, I will take the same route. You need 2 people and some old throw rugs. Good luck.

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There are 2 different lengths of factory starters. You must use the shorter one. I had to change mine. Just another 100 bucks! I also wrapped mine in a heat insulating blanket and ran the cables around the back just under the head. I mounted the solenoid onto one of the rail bolts at the back of the intake.
 

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My race car has TTI 2" installed from bottom about 1'8 clearence using Mopar Spool mounts on V8 K frame. (cars was also /6)
No exhaust gaskets. Next to impossible to remove headers with engine in place. I found I can drop the engine from bottom for repairs to starter and other maintence quicker than trying to remove headers

Good Luck
Maynard.
 

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Man, after reading this post, i'll gladly give up a few ponies and run my Schumacher's. My daughter could have
installed them in under 1/2 hour.
 

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duster73 said:
The 1 3/4 won't be any problem to change the gasket on the right side. I only use bolts no studs.
The only prob will be draining coolant or else you will have a mess. Might need to loosen motor mounts ,
maybe not for a gasket, if its copper and comes off clean.
Rick
 

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Hello
Here is a shot just after i put engine in for the first time. My 440 sits a little higher most I have seen so it looks wider than it is.
Mounts are Mopar spool on v8 K frame, car was /6 orginally.

Maynard
 

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duster73 said:
The 1 3/4 won't be any problem to change the gasket on the right side. I only use bolts no studs.
I did the right side header yesterday.  Took me 3+ hours.  It had studs. With the right side of the engine jacked up as high as it would go, I just barely could get the header flange over the studs.  I cut the forward (up near the Alt) stud off.  Didn't feel like draining the coolant.  I had a bear of a time getting the trans dipstick bellhousing  mount bolt off.  No room to work.  I had to stop to keep raising the car higher & higher to get the clearance needed to the ground.

No it's not blood. I forgot to drain some trans fluid before I pulled the dipstick. What a mess.

Post Script: The right side header leans hard & heavy on the innner fender with the torque arm disconnected. I may make a 3/8" plate and put it under the rubber insulator to try to take some strain off the torque arm.
 
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