I just installed a cage in my 68 dart, I tacked it in with a 110 amp lincoln mig welder. then I welded it solid with a 200 amp mig welder. The instuctions with my cage said use atleast a 130 amp mig welder.
Welder question
This is just a general welder question. I'm just starting to strip down a 66 dart gt for a roll bar install. My question is what kind of welder do you guys reccomend for a basic hotrodder? All I'll be using it for is roll bar, subframe connectors, body panels, etc.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Where's a good place to buy a welder? Is it a bad idea to buy one used? Do they run on 110 or 220?
My 110 runs on 110, and are 200 from work runs on 220. You could rent one also if it is only a one weekend thing.
There's a post on welder's in the Off Topic section. I like the hobart 140 from Northern Tools.
http://www.bigblockdart.com/index.php?topic=1195.0
http://www.bigblockdart.com/index.php?topic=1195.0
There is alot info on this subject around the site. I like Miller 175. It is a 220 welder.
If you want to buy a new welder go to www.cyberweld.com. They can sell welding machines cheaper than I can get at local welding stores with my contractor discount. They carry the big names. I love my Miller 175 for Mig and 300XMT for everything else.
Tom
Tom
Escuse my ignorance guys, but I saw this welder on craigs list
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/tls/127857988.html
Is this a good welder to buy? Can you weld subframe connectors or a roll bar with it? Where's a good place to buy a welder? Is it bad to buy a used one? I only need one for a project car; roll bar, subframe connectors, floor pans, wheel tubs, etc. What is the most economical way to do this? Where do you buy a gas tank and supplies? Any help would be awesome.
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/tls/127857988.html
Is this a good welder to buy? Can you weld subframe connectors or a roll bar with it? Where's a good place to buy a welder? Is it bad to buy a used one? I only need one for a project car; roll bar, subframe connectors, floor pans, wheel tubs, etc. What is the most economical way to do this? Where do you buy a gas tank and supplies? Any help would be awesome.
Oh yeah, the roll bar. The rule of thumb is that a 100amp will weld .100 thick, 175 amp will weld .175 thick steel, etc. How thick is the roll bar tubing?
If the cage is alloy steel, it needs to be TIG welded. Not likely from your description, but I figured I would mention it.
If the cage is alloy steel, it needs to be TIG welded. Not likely from your description, but I figured I would mention it.
FYI.. A Hobart is a Miller repackaged. Just ask your local welding supplier. ;D
G
I bought a Lincoln 115 volt unit wire feed MIG with four taps for current. It does marvelous on anything thicker than .061 and up to .25 but when trying to weld to .061 sheet metal (body work) it sucks. The lowest tap setting is almost not enough current and the second tap is too much. So you're stuck either blowing holes in the metal or not getting enough penetration. If I had it to do over I'd buy a 220 machine with infantely adjustable current so I could adjust to thinner gage metals.
I have had some sucess by backing my thinner metal welds with a plate of copper which helps even out the heat and prevent blow throughs. I'm not a professional at welding but I'm learning the tricks. My welds are strong but not as pretty as some but betting better as time goes on.
Dan
I have had some sucess by backing my thinner metal welds with a plate of copper which helps even out the heat and prevent blow throughs. I'm not a professional at welding but I'm learning the tricks. My welds are strong but not as pretty as some but betting better as time goes on.
Dan
What size wire are you running? I have done tons of sheetmetal with a Lincoln 115v welder with the 4-taps.daneddy said:I bought a Lincoln 115 volt unit wire feed MIG with four taps for current. It does marvelous on anything thicker than .061 and up to .25 but when trying to weld to .061 sheet metal (body work) it sucks. The lowest tap setting is almost not enough current and the second tap is too much. So you're stuck either blowing holes in the metal or not getting enough penetration. If I had it to do over I'd buy a 220 machine with infantely adjustable current so I could adjust to thinner gage metals.
I have had some sucess by backing my thinner metal welds with a plate of copper which helps even out the heat and prevent blow throughs. I'm not a professional at welding but I'm learning the tricks. My welds are strong but not as pretty as some but betting better as time goes on.
Dan
I ended up buying a 135 Pro-MIG. I know it is kind of small, but it was almost new and came with a speedglas auto darkening helmet, 96 CF full Cylinder, welding gloves, new gas powered mower, milwakee chopsaw, 2 porter cable routers, a 12 v corless drill, a creeper, 2 palm sanders, and 2 angle grinders. All of this was 300 dollars. I found them on craigs list about 1.5 hours from my house. The guy was going through a divorce and needed money asap. The welder as been working really well on filling the holes on the body panels from the trim. Just have to turn the wire speed up so it didn't blow through. Also use a bigger stick out (I think thats the term). And I've been using .030 w/ C25 gas.
Sheesh, sounds like you got a garage full of tools for 300 bucks, good deal. If you plan on doing a lot of sheet metal you may want to switch to the .025-.025 wire. It works well on sheetmetal.mopowers said:I ended up buying a 135 Pro-MIG. I know it is kind of small, but it was almost new and came with a speedglas auto darkening helmet, 96 CF full Cylinder, welding gloves, new gas powered mower, milwakee chopsaw, 2 porter cable routers, a 12 v corless drill, a creeper, 2 palm sanders, and 2 angle grinders. All of this was 300 dollars. I found them on craigs list about 1.5 hours from my house. The guy was going through a divorce and needed money asap. The welder as been working really well on filling the holes on the body panels from the trim. Just have to turn the wire speed up so it didn't blow through. Also use a bigger stick out (I think thats the term). And I've been using .030 w/ C25 gas.
For a beginner or DIY hotrodder, a MIG (Metal Inert Gas) welder is an excellent choice. MIG welding is a relatively simple process that produces clean and strong welds, making it ideal for roll bar, subframe connectors, and body panel work.I bought a Lincoln 115 volt unit wire feed MIG with four taps for current. It does marvelous on anything thicker than .061 and up to .25 but when trying to weld to .061 sheet metal (body work) it sucks. The lowest tap setting is almost not enough current and the second tap is too much. So you're stuck either blowing holes in the metal or not getting enough penetration. If I had it to do over I'd buy a 220 machine with infantely adjustable current so I could adjust to thinner gage metals.
I have had some sucess by backing my thinner metal welds with a plate of copper which helps even out the heat and prevent blow throughs. I'm not a professional at welding but I'm learning the tricks. My welds are strong but not as pretty as some but betting better as time goes on.
mobile welder atlanta
Dan
When choosing a MIG welder, look for one that has a minimum output of 140 amps, as this will provide the power needed for thicker materials. A 220-volt MIG welder will also allow for more versatility and power output, but a 110-volt MIG welder can work for lighter-duty applications.
Some popular and reliable brands of MIG welders for beginners include Lincoln Electric, Hobart, and Miller Electric. Make sure to also invest in proper safety equipment, such as a welding helmet, gloves, and protective clothing.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Big Block Dart Forums
A forum community dedicated to Dodge Dart owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Recommended Communities
