What's the best option to get my car to sit lower in the rear?

I would try adjustable spring hangers... you can get them for the front or rear.  I've got AREngineering front hangers, and with the spring in the upper position, it lowered the rear by about an inch at the wheel well.  The rear shackles I have are also adjustable, made by Prothane, but I'm not using them in the lowered position.  To me, it eyeballs like there isn't enough travel and might bind the spring, but I have NOT tried this to verify.  I was a little disappointed also that the "stock" setting is a tad HIGHER than the shackles I removed, so I didn't get as much drop out of the front hangers as I might have otherwise.  AREngineering and DoctorDiff both make adjustable front hangers, and DoctorDiff's also have about 1/2" offset to them, too.  You'll have to relocate your spring perches if you go that way, though.

Clair

I ordered split mono leafs and cal-tracs from pro carb or promaxcarb or something like that. When I ordered both springs and cals shippingwas free. You can order the springs stock height, 1, 2, 3 inches higher or whatever you like. I ordered mine +1 inch and work fine. I also lost about 40 pounds off the car from the stock springs. (69 Roadrinner) If you run the cal-tracs, don't run the pinion snubber. You can also get springs from afco and some other places. They're not very expensive. You may also try removing leafs from your S/S springs and adding cal-tracs.
good luck

Moparteacher

how about lowering blocks. cheap too.

bOb shingler said:

how about lowering blocks. cheap too.

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That's what I have in my 65. They're about 1 1/4 inch thick. The car sits low and looks like it would bottom out but never does.

Whenever I get my 70 back to the track I wanted to go with monoleafs and caltracks. A lot of guys are having good luck with that setup.

I've heard of guys flipping the front hangers, but I've never tried it so I'm not sure how well it would work. :-\

I have successfully run 2 inch lowering blocks, but if you want the best method, why not just take them to a spring shop and have them de-arched. Removing leaves would ruin the front section stiffness which makes the ss springs work.

you could always put a couple small blocks in the trunk...it will help with traction also LOL LOL

72dart said:

I have a 72 dart with super stock springs and I'm not liking the ride height out back.  I was wondering what changes you 've made to get the car to sit lower.   

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YOu best bet to start is to instal sliders in plcae of your rear shackles. It will lower the car 1.5" approx. Caltadcs will get you more if needed.

flip the front hangers it will lower it and it is free. I have mine filpped and have not had any problems.

ThanX for the help. I guess I should have mentioned I already mini tubbed and did a spring relocation into the frame so I can't flip the front hanger. Can you still use cal-tracs with springs moved into the frame rails or do the front boxes get into the way?

qkcuda said:

I have successfully run 2 inch lowering blocks, but if you want the best method, why not just take them to a spring shop and have them de-arched. Removing leaves would ruin the front section stiffness which makes the ss springs work.

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I didn't think removing leaves would be a good idea so that's out. Do you have any pics of the ride height with 2" lowering blocks? I've been working like crazy on the dart and finished a few patches and replaced a quarter panel. I stretched my wheel openings so I can stuff taller tires in. The cars stripped to bare metal and I hope to start spraying it within 2 weeks! Just getting everything straight right now is soooooo time consuming. After the paint is done I'll be able to throw some cash into getting the ride height better.

there's more work to it, but think about coil-overs & ladder bars 8)

The easiest path would probably be taking the SS springs out and de-arching them. I may go that way myself.

I don't have any pics with the lowering blocks since I removed them. I made my own from 2x2 square tubing, with a hole drilled in the bottom for the spring pin and a bolt installed in the top as a locating pin for the saddle. You have to also be careful that nothing extends lower than the bottom of the rim in case of a flat tire.