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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have installed a conglomeration of brake parts including Ford rear disks and MP front disks with a SSBC adjustable prop. valve. I need to buy a double flaring tool and was wondering where you got yours.

Bending tubing is a part of my trade but we don't use the double flaring type.

I have previously bought pre bent kits from Year One and they fit pretty good. I have access to stainless steel. I'll do the research for us guys running SVO brakes.

Tom
 

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Hey Tom, if you run stainless lines you dont need a double flare, just an FYI.... ;)

Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys. Looks like snap on has us covered. They have a very nice did it all automotive kit for about $500 :eek:

Ryan, I did not know that.

I'd also better check to see if my brake kits use a 45 degree or a bubble flare. Isn't building custom cars fun. ::)

Tom
 

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Tom, I use a MATCO that I got used for 30 bucks and a bender from Kragen that was 20. The bender has two wheels and does 3/16, 1/4, 5/16 & 3/8.

ski

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks ski. I have the benders and a single flare flare kit already and your kit looks nice and affordable.

Tom
 

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I got my flaring kit from McMaster Carr. I've had no problems yet. I will be using it for my SS fuel lines soon.
 

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i have the lisle kit. im not too much of a fan of it. could just be me overtightening it, but i cant tell you how many 3/16" dies i have broken. lucky for me, every time i have just emailed them and they send me a new one. the die just gets stuck in there so tight you cant do anything to remove it. ive tried lube beofre flaring, i ream the end, i just dont know.
 

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I have the Snap On flaring tool. It works great. You probably have 45 degree double flares on that car. I also use a whole collection of different benders because each one fits into tight spots differently and some make smaller or larger bend radii than others. If I knew how to post pics, I'd show you my collection.
 

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if you want to upgrade, in my auto class at school, we have a snap-on hydrolic double flaring tool, the $500 one and boy is it slick, does 4 different sizes bubble, iso, stranded and metric

you probably don't need all that but boy is it nice
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
moparrr07 said:
if you want to upgrade, in my auto class at school, we have a snap-on hydrolic double flaring tool, the $500 one and boy is it slick, does 4 different sizes bubble, iso, stranded and metric

you probably don't need all that but boy is it nice
Yes I saw that. It will be the last flaring set you ever buy. Thanks for all the replies.
 

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b569rr said:
moparrr07 said:
if you want to upgrade, in my auto class at school, we have a snap-on hydrolic double flaring tool, the $500 one and boy is it slick, does 4 different sizes bubble, iso, stranded and metric

you probably don't need all that but boy is it nice
Yes I saw that. It will be the last flaring set you ever buy. Thanks for all the replies.
you mean the last set you buy before you get thrown out of the house, or the last set you buy and then you lose all hobby purchasing privleges?
 

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whats different with the stainless that you don't need the double flare????i've never heard that , but then again i've never worked with stainless .. not saying its wrong just trying to learn for future reference.. i have a matco one i think it was 50 bucks new i like it i know if you don't get all the burrs out that 3/16 die breaks real easy on anyones bender i got a matco ,mac or snap on because they replace it free when it brakes i use a small philips screwdriver to de burr the tube and a good sharp cutter makes a big difference

has anyone used the an style fittings , someone i work with said you dont have to double flare those also???
 
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I bought a GOOD Imperial Eastman flare kit ($90) and it is much heavier duty than the single clamp $25 stlyle job. I've always had trouble with off center flares and the tubing slipping down during the bubble phase with the cheap ones. The imperial is the way to go. Now...If I didn't cheap out I would have bought the hydraulic hand flare tool. WAY cool....but pricey at ~ 300+ dollars.

My service books say to use double flares on steel lines only for brakes due to high operating pressures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I don't know if stainless would take a double flare being that it is so stiff.

And jamesdart; have you been talking to my wife. I was out in the shop making front and back drive line loops yesterday when whe comes in and says, "What are you doing now?" with a little attitude. I said nothing honey I'm coming in right now. LOL LOL LOL

Thanks for the input guys. I'm hoping to take next week off and get started of this.

I'll try and sneak back there tonight. Remember I run the house. fullmoon
 

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watch the homemade loops , our tech inspector doesn't like them here if it doesn't look mass produced he will give you a hard time

my buddie had a nice one from a circle track shop made out of round tubing and he would hasel him everytime
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
vitamindart said:
watch the homemade loops , our tech inspector doesn't like them here if it doesn't look mass produced he will give you a hard time

my buddie had a nice one from a circle track shop made out of round tubing and he would hasel him everytime
Well that's great news  doh I figured I'd build a better product and save a little cash. i'm using 6" schedule 40 (5/16" wall) pipe as a foundation

What if i mass produce them for all my buddies?  ;D I'll post pics either way.

Tom
 

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bbscamp said:
I've always had trouble with off center flares and the tubing slipping down during the bubble phase with the cheap ones.
I fabbed the front lines for my 73 when I did the disc brake conversion. I wanted to buy new, but they were on a national back order at the time and I didn't want to wait the six weeks. I swear none of them came out centered. Car stops great though, passed inspection. Where did you get that Imperial tool from?
 
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