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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've used the Schumacher mounts with a 440 in a 70 Dart - (was a six cylinder) I had to dent my stock style notched pan by the idler and now with my Milodon 7qt low pro pan I've had to beat the shit out of it too and I need to weld stops to limit the turning radius to keep the idler off the pan rail. What's up with my car? Do you guys have the same problem?
 

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I've got a 73 swinger 383, never had a problem. Don't know what the diff is?

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Can you measure the centerline of the motor in the engine bay from side to side, wonder if it's off.
 

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this is where it hit on my 440's pan

i also had to chisle away at the k member right in front of the pan(original 6 K 1969).




there are pans that have this area formed allready for additional clearance needed.
 

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Man, this is a timely thread. I'm getting ready to drop a 440 in a 68' Dart. Does anyone know where to order this correct oil pan, maybe a model number or who makes it. santa1
 

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The pre 73 cars used a different drag link for 6 cyl and V8 cars. The V8 drag link has a dropped centre which clears the pan better. I used the C body pan on my 69 with the V8 link, and I still had to elongate the relief in the pan. Engine height is critical, I believe the correct height is 5 inches from the top of the K to the crank centerline.
 

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According to the Instructions that I got with my TTI headers, the CRANK CENTERLINE should be @ 2 1/2" offset to the passenger side, and 5 1/8" above the TOP of the crossmember.

I beleive all the A-Bodies 67 and up measure 30" inside of frame rail to inside of frame rail.

So tha means the crank centerline should measure 16 1/4" from the LEFT(Drivers) side, and 13 3/4" from the RIGHT(passenger) side, and 5 1/8" up from the crossmember.

I am in the process of modding a 67 smallblock crossmember so that I can use the biscuit mounts(more room than spool mounts). I am using these measurements and everything mocks up fine.

As stated in an earlier post, you MAY have to shim the motor mounts up a bit, I think Schumacher has a set of various shims available for this.

Yea, I know I can buy Schumacher mounts, but I like to do things my self. I am also retired and have more time than money. LOL

Herb
 

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Johnny: Get you a 699 or a 187 oil pan and you should be happy. I did this with the 633 like you show and no dice then i took a 187 from one of my 400's and what a sweet deal. Made to fit. Problem solved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My engine builder made me get a deep sump Milodon, he says if I don't use a drag pan it will starve my engine, so I got the low profile pan. I spent the day under there screwing around and got the drag link to clear the pan with some grinding of the link and hammering on the pan. I will also need to weld a half inch stop to the control arm to keep the idler stud from hitting the pan rail. I'm setting it on the ground tonight and checking again then it's track time Friday night. New combo should put me in the 11's now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I had to ding a header tube by the pitman arm too, even though I'm running the Pro-part headers. This car has worn me out with all the clearance issues. Next time I'm throwing money at it with the rack and pinion tube setup, but for now I'm trying to get to the track because the nearest one is closing after the Hangover nationals on new years day. L.A.C.R. in Palmdale Cal.
 
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