[440challenger]

trying to wire up the turbo dart so it has street legal lights.

Lots or wiring is cut out ,and as you know when you didn't do it it's tricky to figure out.

I been working on this everynight after work and it seems like i get no where! Heres the exact wiring i have hooked up so far:

Ignition Switch:
Heavy yellow- TO HORN

Heavy Black- To 2nd Male spade connector on back of fuse panel

Orange-last male spade connector on back of fuse panel (but both orange wires that feed out are cut)

Heavy brown- NOT HOOKED UP

Heavy Blue- NOT HOOKED UP

Heavy Red- 4th male spade connector down on the Fuse panel

2 small reds- No where

TURN SIGNAL SWITCH:

Green/red stripe- to starter relay Male spade on the right side of the relay (spade by itself)

Yellow/black- yellow/black
lt green- black/ green stripe
purple- purple/ white stripe
tan- black /tan stripe

Still no lights ,or turnsignals.
Now I did take the heavy red wire from the ignition switch harness and hit it with 12 volts from the starter relay . The parking lights came on ,but they would not shut off when i turn the light switch off.

Now i looked at the diagrams (im not using an ammeter ) and have none of its stock wiring, to me it looks like I dont need to even have to worry about it?

I'm about ready to buy a painless wiring kit and just re do the whole car b/c i can get these stinkin lights workin! If anyoen has a few minutes,please let me know if you see something i did not hook up correctly or something that i did not hook up yet.
Thanks tnku doh

 

[slow_motion]

ooops, did i do that? **(*)

I wish i could help, but there are 2 problems. I dont have the car in front of me, and you have to remember, i was working very closely with the factory diagrams to use just what was needed---so yes, you will find some wires that dont go anywhere and may not be needed. I wish i could get there quickly and help you, i wasnt trying to make it that difficult---i though it was almost self explanitory.

My advise, power up the lights to see what wires power what and label them. Then, get a multimeter and your diagrams out and see what controls what on the switch---you really need a multimeter to do the work---you have one, dont you?

--chad

 

[440challenger]

Hey chad, not your fault, I think after reading these diagrams so much im loosing my mind. Maybe i have to step back and take a break?
-o It's far from self explanitory LOL



[attachment deleted by admin]

 

[slow_motion]

Thats no problem, a couple of snipes here, a little solder there---it'll be fine

yes, you may have to just step back and take a break---best thing is to work on one circut at a time. do headlights, then do tail lights, then brake lights, etc, etc. Wiring takes a bit of time--as your finding out. It took me 3 hrs of tracing diagrams and cutting out stuff, just to rid the dash harness of stuff i didnt absolutly need. Also remember that alot of the dash stuff is gone because i was doing my own thing---so there will be alot missing there. All the wiring from all the lights should get you up to the dash, but as your finding out, the t/s switch and headlamp switch to the rest wiring is the trickiest. Like i said, step back and just do one circut at a time.

--chad

 

[440challenger]

One of the main problems is im not getting any power TO the fuse blcok. On the painless kit i put in my road runner they had a main feed, I dont think the stock fuse block on the dart is set up that way?

 

[1967dart406]

IVE GOT TO START WORKING ON MY BUDDYS IN THE NEXT COUPLE OF WEEKS WE WENT AHEAD AND ORDER A REPRO WIRING DIAGRAM TO GET US STARTED ON WHERE WE NEEDED TO GO

 

[440challenger]

I have the diagrams , but the wiring in the car isnt stock to follow them. The car has a painless switch box installed for ignition and start. So i'm really only using the ignition switch to unlock the steering wheel and some how get my lights to work.

 

[Jim_Lusk]

Lights don't go through the ignition switch. Like said above, go one circuit at a time. Some of the fuse block is switched power (some ign, some accessory), the rest is always powered. The main power enters the car via the red wire to the ALT guage and feeds the rest of the car via the black wire from the ALT guage.

 

[demon340v]

it's justa thought, but why don't you build your own fwd light harness and rear light harness. use a bit of the factory wire at the end where it all hooks up to the main harness under the dash.

Just get the proper guage wire and you should be good to go. I built my fwd light harness like that. i took it all apart and used only a bti of teh stock wiring(for when i go back to it with my wiring diagram) and i re taped everything and tell you what looks excellent.


just my thoughts though

 

[Scampin]

You have the wrong mind set for solving wiring/electrical problems. If you go into the project hating the idea of it, it will beat you. You have to think positive and clearly. If all else fails, overlay a new harness.

 

[SIKPUP]

Nick,

GOOD LUCK ! ;D

SIKPUP ;D

Start from scratch one wire at a time, when your not in a hurry ! Do you have another harness ?

 

[DartKnight]

The above statements are 100% true. I was an electrician in the Navy, and I can tell you that electrical is never an exact science, but slow and methodical is definitely the way to go. A spare harness to use as a template along with the diagrams (and a multimeter: a MUST have) will cut the time in half. I wouldn't even worry about the lights until you get the main power feeds complete, then move on to one accessory at a time off of the fuse box. Rule of thumb: triple check the grounds! 

 

[strange246]

FWIW my harness wasn't even that bad, but I'm still going with a Painless or Ron Francis harness...Monkeying with 30+ year old wiring or nice & new? I'll take new thanks...Just my $0.02

 

[Small Block]

Just thought !!!! A little paint can sure screw up a good ground and promote hair lose. o[

 

[slow_motion]

Its Nicks car now so he can do what he wants, But the way i was going with it, i had left the rear lighting harness up to the kick panel connector and the front lighting up to the firewall (no bulkhead connector in the car--was eliminating that troublesome part). I also left all the wiring in the column itself. So yea, basically everything to connect them was going to have to be redone.

Anything that had to do with starting and making the car actually run is on its own circut via painless 6 circut panel. This was the easiest thing to do as nothing running gear wise in the car is stock. This setup worked really well on a friends car i did so i thought it was a good idea---eliminates alot of the "crossover" wiring associated with a factory harness and non stock ignition/fuel pumps/fan, etc.

Nick, your not going to finish the wiring in a day, so just take your time. Do one circut at a time. Maybe if you have someone close by that is good with wiring to give you a hand too. Sometimes 2 heads are better than one.

--chad

 

[abodyjoe]

I'm about ready to buy a painless wiring kit and just re do the whole car b/c i can get these stinkin lights workin!

hey nick before you buy a painless kit you should check out the stuff ameican auto wire sells.. they are local and sell some nice stuff.. a local street rod store sells their stuff... www.thestreetrodstore.com

 

[440challenger]

Hey guys, i bought a stock un cut wiring harness on ebay. im going to start with something that hasnt been cut up, get everything working,and then eliminate what I don't need. ill figure it out sooner or later ! ;D o----o<>

 

[Halfaed]

Good luck buddy, I hate wiring, Thanks to my dad my car works. But there is some good advice up there^^^^^^^^^ -0*(

 

[DJVCuda]

nick - i have a hard time diguring out what your talking about - every time you post i canty stop stairing at your avatar...lol...

 

[Midnight Special]

**(*)I don't do electrical, scares the poop outta me! pay someone to put a Painless or equal type in it for ya o[ o[ doh doh dohHATES ELECTRICAL