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electric water pump?

13K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  jyrki  
#1 ·
I'm looking for choices/cost for an electric water pump for a 440. I have a aluminum radiator that exits top drivers side and bottom pass side. Is the csr my best choice? Anyone have pics of their pump and connections?
 
#2 ·
going to be kinda hard to set the timing with the water hose in the way. you might consider sending it back and get the opposite one. i got my water pump from jeg's, about $!00 something and it fit inside the aluminum pump housing.



 
#3 ·
Yup I think I know the pump your talking about, but I don't even have a housing. I guess the csr would work with the right hose bends. But I also have to buy the hose adapter for the pump and I wanted to see how tight the bends would be. And if it could be fitted easily.
 
#6 ·
Water goes from the electric water pump, into the top of the waterpump manifold. Goes into the top holes in the block, circulates around the motor. Comes out the lower waterpump manifold. Goes into the top of the radiator. Circulates thru the radiator, comes out bottom of radiator , going to electric water pump, and starts all over again.
 
#7 ·
The Shogun water manifold has a restrictor in the upper pipe to control the water flow rate, which is reverse flow. The pump is sort of like a boat bilge pump but with gerotor gears, and is mounted low like next to the driver side frame horn. This is a great system. I could stage my BBD at 160-170 degrees engine temp, make a pass down the quarter and the temp would be down to 140 by the time I got to the E.T. shack to pick up the time slip, and this was during summer. I did have a Griffen aluminum radiator also. You can also get the Tik Tok system that turns the fan and the pump off and on in sequence. This is great during the later rounds when you have such a short time to get back into the staging lanes but need to maybe charge the batteries a little and cool down the motor. I always also use an alternator since there is so much electrical load between the water and fuel pumps, fan, ignition box and lights. Keeping the voltage up makes the car more consistent. This is one really good company to deal with also. Bill Shoquist always has the time to help with other technical things also like for those with a transbrake that experience strange round to round changes in times for no apparent reason. It is caused by a voltage spike, or surge from the solenoid, another item he has a cure for.
Bla^*+
 
#10 ·
In my opinion, at least in a street driven car, Davies Craig EWP pump & controller is even a better system. They don't offer a water intake, so you have the possibilities of using the stock housing with a cover replacing the pump, or build your own water intake the way you want (reversed or stock circulation). The beauty of this set up is its variable speed motor that is thermostat controlled, it warms up quick, and keeps the temp as adjusted all the time. I have had this system for four years now, and it works great. My "water intake is just two flanges with studs in hte block, and two Y's + hoses. That way I can change between reversed or stock circulation if needed. The system works great both in the street nad at the track, and I have never experienced overheating problems with their smaller pump and one big electric fan. The advertised rates of their pump don't seem huge, but I believe this is because they are honest. We have compared this pump to a Meziere removing the upper rad hose, and the EWP seem to pump way more water than the Meziere. According to the data logger, the water temp during the burnout and in the stage stays steady at 165.7 F, and in the end of the run the water temp is 172.7 F, this with an engine making about 1300 hp. I like the remote style, because it's way shorter than any of the other styles, leaving way more room in front of the engine (with a short pulley for the alternator), and it leaves the cam timing system fully accessible without removing the pump
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=47
 
#11 ·
jyrki said:
In my opinion, at least in a street driven car, Davies Craig EWP pump & controller is even a better system. They don't offer a water intake, so you have the possibilities of using the stock housing with a cover replacing the pump, or build your own water intake the way you want (reversed or stock circulation). The beauty of this set up is its variable speed motor that is thermostat controlled, it warms up quick, and keeps the temp as adjusted all the time. I have had this system for four years now, and it works great. My "water intake is just two flanges with studs in hte block, and two Y's + hoses. That way I can change between reversed or stock circulation if needed. The system works great both in the street nad at the track, and I have never experienced overheating problems with their smaller pump and one big electric fan. The advertised rates of their pump don't seem huge, but I believe this is because they are honest. We have compared this pump to a Meziere removing the upper rad hose, and the EWP seem to pump way more water than the Meziere. According to the data logger, the water temp during the burnout  and in the stage stays steady at 165.7 F, and in the end of the run the water temp is 172.7 F, this with an engine making about 1300 hp. I like the remote style, because it's way shorter than any of the other styles, leaving way more room in front of the engine (with a short pulley for the alternator), and it leaves the cam timing system fully accessible without removing the pump   
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=47   
sounds pretty cool... have any pics of your set-up?
 
#12 ·
I don't have any pictures, where you can get a good picture of our set up. ;D Our engine bay is such a mess. Here you can see the flange on one side fo the block and the hose going to the upper rad hose Y, + one stub going towards the lower hose Y, and the hose comeing from the other side of the block. The pump is just floating in between teh lower radiator hose, it isn't attached anywhere, and can b eseen in the pic too between the turbo and the radiator, black thing at low left. I was very suspicious when I first got it, since the pump isn't much to talk about and only weighs about 1 lbs or so. So, I put a volt meter in between the pumps wires, and watched for a while how it worked. On a warm summer day, in city traffic the output stayed between 6 and 9 volts, and after a couple of days I took the voltmeter off and have relied on the system to work properly ever since.
http://www.kuvia.1g.fi/kuvat/Tapahtumat+2007/FHRA/NitroNationals5-8.7_07/Pit/5-8.7_07-081.jpg/full
 
#15 ·
I have a Meziere pump and am very happy with it. You can plumb it from either side, they give you a plug for the side that is not being used. My radiator set up is the opposite of yours but with both side tapped at the bottom and a swivel top it can go with your radiator.
 
#16 ·
rrautoracing said:
I have a Meziere pump and am very happy with it. You can plumb it from either side, they give you a plug for the side that is not being used. My radiator set up is the opposite of yours but with both side tapped at the bottom and a swivel top it can go with your radiator.

</Hijack!>

Hey, what air filter setup is that?

</hijack!>
 
#18 ·
Yes that meziere pump is awsome, but it's also very expensive. I think the csr pump is kind of the same idea. It's a little cheaper than the meziere pump, but still expensive. :'(
 
#19 ·
rrautoracing said:
I made it up to fit under my hood scoop.

I have the same scoop - and need almost the same thing....I've thought about making one of those for years, just never got around to it.
 
G
#20 ·
jyrki said:
In my opinion, at least in a street driven car, Davies Craig EWP pump & controller is even a better system. They don't offer a water intake, so you have the possibilities of using the stock housing with a cover replacing the pump, or build your own water intake the way you want (reversed or stock circulation). The beauty of this set up is its variable speed motor that is thermostat controlled, it warms up quick, and keeps the temp as adjusted all the time. I have had this system for four years now, and it works great. My "water intake is just two flanges with studs in hte block, and two Y's + hoses. That way I can change between reversed or stock circulation if needed. The system works great both in the street nad at the track, and I have never experienced overheating problems with their smaller pump and one big electric fan. The advertised rates of their pump don't seem huge, but I believe this is because they are honest. We have compared this pump to a Meziere removing the upper rad hose, and the EWP seem to pump way more water than the Meziere. According to the data logger, the water temp during the burnout  and in the stage stays steady at 165.7 F, and in the end of the run the water temp is 172.7 F, this with an engine making about 1300 hp. I like the remote style, because it's way shorter than any of the other styles, leaving way more room in front of the engine (with a short pulley for the alternator), and it leaves the cam timing system fully accessible without removing the pump   
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=47   
jyrki , I was wondering if you`d tried the Indy / Mezziere reverse flow plate?
Chryco ;)
P.S Sorry if this is a hyjack